The most frequently asked questions about Concrete Paint
What is the difference between CONCRETE PAINT 1K and CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
CONCRETE PAINT 1K is a 1-component acrylic based paint. CONCRETE PAINT 1K is Suitable for concrete walls, floors, and other concrete, stone, or screed surfaces without standing water. CONCRETE PAINT 1K is Designed for indoor and outdoor areas.
CONCRETE PAINT 2K is a 2-components epoxy resin-based paint. CONCRETE PAINT 2K is deal for all absorbing concrete, stone, or screed surfaces in living spaces, garages, basements, warehouses, and industrial halls. CONCRETE PAINT 2K Can be used in indoor, including those with water contact but not permanent water contact.
When should I use CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
CONCRETE PAINT 1K is ideal for indoor and outdoor areas where there is no standing water or heavy wear. CONCRETE PAINT 1K is suitable for concrete walls and ceilings (e.g., basements, utility rooms, living spaces), floors with light to moderate use (e.g., residential spaces, storage rooms), stone or screed surfaces without water exposure, and decorative concrete areas where a protective coating is needed.
CONCRETE PAINT 1K can be used as flooring paint, flooring sealant, wall paint. concrete paint, cement paint, screed paint, plaster paint or stone paint.
When should I use CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
CONCRETE PAINT 2K is the best choice for high-traffic, heavily used, or water-exposed surfaces (but not permanent water contact) indoors. CONCRETE PAINT 2K is designed for absorbing concrete, stone, or screed surfaces, garages, basements, warehouses, and industrial halls floors and walls exposed to heavy wear and tear, areas with water contact (e.g., bathrooms, laundry rooms), and surfaces requiring a waterproof, highly durable coating.
CONCRETE PAINT 2K can be used as flooring paint, flooring sealant, wall paint, concrete paint, cement paint, screed paint, plaster paint, and stone paint.
Is CONCRETE PAINT 1K suitable for outdoor use?
Yes, CONCRETE PAINT 1K can be used in outdoor areas.
Is CONCRETE PAINT 2K suitable for outdoor use?
CONCRETE PAINT 2K is only suitable for indoors.
How should I apply CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
Instructions for Using CONCRETE PAINT 1K
- Before using CONCRETE PAINT 1K, the temperature of the room, the substrate and the CONCRETE PAINT 1K itself must be at least +8°C.
- Before painting with CONCRETE PAINT 1K the substrate should be clean, dry, and free of any substance that may prevent the paint's adhesion.
- Mix the CONCRETE PAINT 1K well before use.
- Apply a coat of CONCRETE PAINT 1K with a roller and let it dry (approx. 8 hours at 20°C).
- Apply several coats of CONCRETE PAINT 1K until you achieve the desired result. We recommend applying at least 2 coats of CONCRETE PAINT 1K.
How should I apply CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
Instructions for Use CONCRETE PAINT 2K
- Before using CONCRETE PAINT 2K, the temperature of the room and the substrate should be at least +8°C. The CONCRETE PAINT 2K itself should be at least +15°C.
- Before painting with CONCRETE PAINT 2K the substrate should be clean, dry, and free of any substance that may prevent the paint's adhesion.
- Mix resin CONCRETE PAINT 2K (A-component) with hardener CONCRETE PAINT 2K (B-component) in a ratio of 5:1 (e.g., 500g resin: 100g hardener). We recommend mixing small quantities of approx. 600g CONCRETE PAINT 2K at once, as the CONCRETE PAINT 2K is very reactive and thickens quickly. Optionally, the mixture CONCRETE PAINT 2K can be diluted by adding 20% water. Please note that adding water into the concrete paint will impact the coverage.
- To dye the CONCRETE PAINT 2K resin-hardener mixture, add approximately 5% WB PIGMENT to it. (e.g. 30g WB PIGMENT for 600g (550g A+100g B) CONCRETE PAINT 2K)
- Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the CONCRETE PAINT 2K will settle there. Ideally, pour into a clean mixing cup and mix again until the CONCRETE PAINT 2K is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
- To prevent the CONCRETE PAINT 2K from thickening too quickly, pour the mixed and coloured CONCRETE PAINT 2K into a paint tray immediately after mixing.
- Apply the CONCRETE PAINT 2K to the desired surface using a foam roller in a criss-cross pattern.
- Wait at least 12-48 hours before applying the second coat of CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
- Allow the last coat of CONCRETE PAINT 2K to dry and harden.
Do I need to apply multiple coats of Concrete Paint? How many coats of Concrete Paint are necessary?
For proper coverage and durability, two coats of Concrete Paint are necessary. In some cases, especially with old concrete, a third coat of concrete paint might be needed.
Does CONCRETE PAINT 1K require a primer?
A primer is not always necessary when applying CONCRETE PAINT 1K, but it can be beneficial, especially for very old or highly absorbent concrete surfaces.To primer before applying CONCRETE PAINT 1K, you can use our deep primer, alternatively you can apply a first coat of concrete panit 1k diluted 20% water so it acts as a primer.
How much CONCRETE PAINT 2K do I need per m²?
The consumption volume of CONCRETE PAINT 2K is in average 200g/m² per coat, we recommend 2 coats. The porosity of the substrate can influence the consumption volume of CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
How much CONCRETE PAINT 1K do I need per m²?
The consumption volume of CONCRETE PAINT 1K is in average 125g/m² per coat, we recommend applying 2 coats. The porosity of the substrate can influence the consumption volume of CONCRETE PAINT 1K.
How long should I wait between CONCRETE PAINT 2K coats?
The waiting time between coats of CONCRETE PAINT 2K is at least 12 hours and no more than 48 hours. If you wait longer than 48h between your layers of CONCRETE PAINT 2K, you must sand the first layer CONCRETE PAINT 2K before applying a new layer of CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
How long does it take for the CONCRETE PAINT 2K to dry?
The CONCRETE PAINT 2K can be walked on after 24h when applied and let to cure at 20°C with a humidity level of 65%.
The CONCRETE PAINT 2K is lightly loadable after approximatively 2days when applied and let to cure at 20°C with a humidity level of 65%.
The CONCRETE PAINT 2K is fully loadable after 7days when applied and let to cure at 20°C with a humidity level of 65%.
At temperatures below 15°C, the chemical reaction of the CONCRETE PAINT 2K is significantly delayed, which prolongs the curing time and impacts the technical properties of the CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
The risk of optical defects such as whitening and carbamate formation also increases when using CONCRETE PAINT 2K under 15°C.
How long does it take for the CONCRETE PAINT 1K to dry?
The CONCRETE PAINT 1K needs at least 12h before to dry and before applying a new layer CONCRETE PAINT 1K.
The CONCRETE PAINT 1K is completely dry and fully loadable after 6-7 days at 20°C.
The CONCRETE PAINT 1K needs longer to dry if the temperature is lower than 20°C and if the humidity level is higher than 65%.
How dry does the concrete needs to be to be painted with concrete paint?
Your concrete should not have a humidity level higher than 4% before painting with concrete paint.
How to paint concrete paint and have one homogeneous surface?
Concrete paint must be applied wet-on-wet on continuous surfaces and carefully worked in to avoid overlaps.
What is the recommended working temperature with CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
The recommended working temperature when using CONCRETE PAINT 1K (substrate temperature, room temperature, CONCRETE PAINT 1K temperature) is 20°C.
What is the minimum working temperature of the CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
The minimum working temperature when using CONCRETE PAINT 1K (substrate temperature, room temperature, CONCRETE PAINT 1K temperature) is 8°C. Working with CONCRETE PAINT 1K or letting CONCRETE PAINT 1K dry under 8°C can cause drying problem.
What is the recommended humidity level when working with CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
The recommended humidity level when working with CONCRETE PAINT 1K is 65%.
How to clean the tools after using CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
The maximum humidity level when working with CONCRETE PAINT 1K is 70%.
How to clean the tools after using CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
You can clean your tools with water immediately after using CONCRETE PAINT 1K.
How to store CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
CONCRETE PAINT 1K must be stored tightly sealed, in a cool and dry place, but protected from frost in the original container. Keep opened CONCRETE PAINT 1K containers well sealed and use them soon. Diluted CONCRETE PAINT 1K should be used quickly, as it has only a short storage life.
CONCRETE PAINT 1K maximum storage temperature of 25°C should not be exceeded.
Where to trash the containers of CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
Disposal of the CONCRETE PAINT 1K:
Dispose of liquid CONCRETE PAINT 1K residues at a municipal disposal facility. Dried CONCRETE PAINT 1K residues can be disposed of as construction and demolition waste or household waste.
Disposal of the Packaging CONCRETE PAINT 1K:
Only completely emptied CONCRETE PAINT 1K containers should be recycled. Uncleaned CONCRETE PAINT 1K packaging must be disposed of in the same manner as the substance.
Can you dilute CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
Yes, you can dilute CONCRETE PAINT 1K with up to 20% water to use as a primer. Diluting CONCRETE PAINT 1K, will affect the opacity and coverage.
How many m² can I paint with 1kg CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
1kg CONCRETE PAINT 1K are sufficient to paint 1 coat on 8m² smooth surface. If the surface you are painting is rough or highly absorbent, you will need more CONCRETE PAINT 1K.
Can CONCRETE PAINT 1K be put in contact with a plasticizer?
No, CONCRETE PAINT 1K should not be put in contact with plasticizer.
How to clean and maintain CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
CONCRETE PAINT 1K is an acrylic-based paint. We recommend regularly dusting the surface coated with CONCRETE PAINT 1K and, if necessary, gently removing stains using water and a mild surfactant.
How to prevent tear and wear on flooring?
Coatings on floor surfaces are subject to wear depending on usage. The intensity and visibility of optical impairments depend on the chosen color shade. The technical functionality of the floor surfaces is not affected by this. Components of organic substances (e.g., coffee, tea, red wine, plant residues, etc.) and chemicals such as disinfectants and acids can lead to color changes in the coating.
When exposed to abrasion (e.g., from sand, metal shavings, or chair casters), light scratches and grooves may form on the surface. These optical changes do not affect functionality. Light or brilliant color shades may show dirt and signs of use more easily than darker and muted shades.
Is CONCRETE PAINT 1K scratch resistant?
CONCRETE PAINT 1K coatings on floor surfaces are subject to wear depending on usage. The intensity and visibility of optical impairments depend on the chosen color shade CONCRETE PAINT 1K. The technical functionality of the CONCRETE PAINT 1K is not affected by this. Components of organic substances (e.g., coffee, tea, red wine, plant residues, etc.) and chemicals such as disinfectants and acids can lead to color changes in the CONCRETE PAINT 1K. When exposed to abrasion (e.g., from sand, metal shavings, or chair casters), light scratches and grooves may form on the CONCRETE PAINT 1K. These optical changes do not affect the functionality of the CONCRETE PAINT 1K. Light or brilliant color shades may show dirt and signs of use more easily than darker and muted shades.
What is included in the CONCRETE PAINT 1K accessory set?
The following accessories are included in the CONCRETE PAINT 1K accessory set:
- 1x Flat Brush 5cm
- 1x Stir Stick
- 1x Foam Roller 25cm + handle
- 1x Paint Tray 32cmx35cm
- 2x Exchangeable insert for paint tray 32x35cm
- 1x Plastic Drop Cloth 50m²
- 1x Nitrile Gloves
- 1x Masking Tape 3cmx50m
Do you apply the concrete paint with a foam or a paint roller?
You can apply the concrete paint with a foam or paint roller, we recommend a paint roller when working on concrete.
There are loose fibre/nap fibre on my paint roller, how can I remove them?
Pre-Wash the Roller – Before first use, rinse the paint roller with water, then let it dry completely. Pre-washing the paint roller helps remove loose fibres from the paint roller.
Use Painter's Tape – Wrap painter’s tape around the paint roller and peel it off to remove any loose fibres from the roller before painting. Avoid Excessive Pressure – Apply even pressure while rolling to prevent fibres from pulling out.
How much WB PIGMENT do I need inside the CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
We recommend adding 10% WB PIGMENT inside the CONCRETE PAINT 1K. For example, add 100g WB PIGMENT to 1kg CONCRETE PAINT 1K.
I have leftover concrete paint can I use it for something else?
Yes, our concrete paint can be used to paint other surfaces than concrete.
What is the recommended working temperature with CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
The recommended working temperature when using CONCRETE PAINT 2K (substrate temperature, room temperature, CONCRETE PAINT 2K temperature) is 20°C.
What is the maximum working temperature with CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
The maximum working temperature when using CONCRETE PAINT 2K (substrate temperature, room temperature, CONCRETE PAINT 2K temperature) is 25°C. Do not CONCRETE PAINT 2K dry and cure at more than 25°C.
What is the minimum working temperature of the CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
The minimum working temperature when using CONCRETE PAINT 2K (substrate temperature, room temperature) is 8°C but your CONCRETE PAINT 2K components must be at least 15°C. Working with CONCRETE PAINT 2K or letting CONCRETE PAINT 2K dry under 8°C can cause drying problem.
What is the recommended humidity level when working with CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
The recommended humidity level when working with CONCRETE PAINT 2K is 65%.
What is the maximum humidity level when working with CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
The maximum humidity level when working with CONCRETE PAINT 2K is 80%.
What is the pot life or working time of the CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
The CONCRETE PAINT 2K has a working time of 40min at 20°C. The CONCRETE PAINT 2K has a working time of 25min at 30°C. After the working time it is no longer possible to use the CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
How many m² can I paint with 1kg CONCRETE PAINT 2k?
It is possible to paint 5m² with 1kg CONCRETE PAINT 2K. If the surface you are painting is rough or highly absorbent, you will need more CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
What is the finish of your concrete paint?
Our concrete paint has a satin finish except the polar white concrete paint which is matte.
How much WB PIGMENT do you need to add to CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
We recommend adding 5% WB PIGMENT into the CONCRETE PAINT 2K. For example, 500g CONCRETE PAINT 2K A-component, with 100g CONCRETE PAINT 2K B-component and 30g WB PIGMENT.
What accessories are included in the CONCRETE PAINT 2K accessory set?
The following accessories are included in the CONCRETE PAINT 2K accessory set:
• 1x Flat Brush 7,5cm
• 1x Paint Roller 25cm with Handle
• 1x Stir Stick
• 1x Paint Tray 32cmx35cm
• 2x Exchangeable insert for paint tray 32x35cm
• 1x Plastic Drop Cloth 50m2
• 1x Nitrile Gloves
• 1x Masking Tape 3cmx50m
• 1x Mixing Bucket 12 litres
• 2x Exchangeable insert for mixing bucket 12 litres
Can I apply CONCRETE PAINT 2K on top of CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
No, CONCRETE PAINT 2K can’t be applied on top of CONCRETE PAINT 1K.
Can I apply CONCRETE PAINT 1K on top of CONCRETE PAINT 2K
Yes, you can apply CONCRETE PAINT 1K on top of the CONCRETE PAINT 2K if you want. Please note that CONCRETE PAINT 1K isn’t as resistant as CONCRETE PAINT 2K and therefore there is no advantages to apply CONCRETE PAINT 1K on top of the CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
Can I apply your CONCRETE PAINT 2K on top of old concrete paint?
No, we do not recommend applying our CONCRETE PAINT 2K on top of an old concrete paint. CONCRETE PAINT 2K might not stick well to the old paint, we recommend sanding to remove the old paint before applying the CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
Can I apply your CONCRETE PAINT 1K on top of old concrete paint?
It is normally possible to apply CONCRETE PAINT 1K on top of an old concrete paint. We recommend sanding to increase the adhesion of the CONCRETE PAINT 1K and testing on a small area to confirm compatibility with the old paint.
What will happen if I apply your CONCRETE PAINT 2K outside in the sun?
We do not recommend applying CONCRETE PAINT 2K outside as the CONCRETE PAINT 2K will bleach out in the sun and eventually peel off. CONCRETE PAINT 2K is only recommended for indoor use.
How can I remove the CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
You can remove CONCRETE PAINT 1K with paint thinners such as acetone and by sanding or scraping It off.
How can I remove the CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
Uncured CONCRETE PAINT 2K can be removed with acetone. Cured CONCRETE PAINT 2K can only be removed by sanding.
Can I spray your CONCRETE PAINT 1K with a spray gun?
Yes, you can spray our CONCRETE PAINT 1K. Our CONCRETE PAINT 1K can be thinned with up to 5% water and applied using a spray gun. Please note that to achieve proper coverage with a spray gun, more layers CONCRETE PAINT 1K will be needed.
Can I spray your CONCRETE PAINT 2K with a spray gun?
Yes, you can spray our CONCRETE PAINT 2K. Our CONCRETE PAINT 2K can be thinned with up to 5% water and applied using a spray gun. Please note that to achieve proper coverage with a spray gun, more layers CONCRETE PAINT 2K will be needed.
Please note that our 2K paints are curing by chemical process. It is important to mix small quantity and clean immediately the after use to prevent the product from curing inside the spray gun.
Is your CONCRETE PAINT 1K heat resistant?
Our CONCRETE PAINT 1K is heat resistant up to 60°C.
Is your CONCRETE PAINT 2K heat resistant?
Our CONCRETE PAINT 2K is heat resistant up to 60°C.
Can I apply your CONCRETE PAINT 2K on underfloor heating?
Yes, you can apply CONCRETE PAINT 2K on underfloor heating. We recommend turning on the heating once the CONCRETE PAINT 2K is no longer tacky and letting it on for 7days.
Can I apply your CONCRETE PAINT 1K on underfloor heating?
Can I apply your CONCRETE PAINT 1K on underfloor heating?
Do you have colour samples of your concrete paint
Do you have a catalogue of your concrete paint?
No, we do not have a catalogue or samples of our concrete paint. All the pictures and videos on our website show the concrete paint in the most accurate way possible.
Can I order another colour of concrete paint than the one online?
It is possible to order our concrete paint without pigment and add the WB PIGMENT of your choice.
Can you make a custom colour of concrete paint? Can I have the concrete paint pre-coloured?
We can only offer custom colour or pre-tinted concrete paint for quantities over 500kg.
The colour of my paint does look like the picture on the website?
While we do our best to provide accurate representations of our paint colours online, the shade you receive may appear slightly different in person. This can be due to several factors, including differences in screen settings and lighting.
Additionally, the final appearance of the paint can vary depending on the substrate (the surface it's applied to) and the lighting conditions in the room. Natural and artificial light can both affect how the colour is perceived, so the paint may look different depending on the time of day or the intensity of the light.
Why does my CONCRETE PAINT 2K not have good coverage?
To ensure proper coverage with the CONCRETE PAINT 2K, it is important to mix the individual components well before mixing them together. The fillers and binders in the CONCRETE PAINT 2K A component can settle at the bottom of the container over time, leaving the top layer mostly water. We recommend mixing the CONCRETE PAINT 2K A component upside down for a while and shaking it well before mixing it with CONCRETE PAINT 2K component B in a 5:1 ratio. The following questions can help us find out the cause of the problem:
On what type of concrete did you apply the concrete paint 2k?
What preparation did you do before applying the concrete paint 2k?
Was the surface pre-treated before applying the concrete paint 2k?
At what temperature was the concrete paint 2k applied and left to dry ?
How much concrete paint 2k was used, and how many square metres were covered?
How many coats of concrete paint 2k were applied, and how long between each coat?
What was the room’s humidity level when you applied and left the concrete paint 2k cure?
Do you have transparent concrete paint?
Our CONCRETE PAINT 1K and CONCRETE PAINT 2K are milky due to the binders and fillers and are not suitable as transparent coatings. Our 2K PU Topcoat can be used as a transparent topcoat on concrete.
Why does my CONCRETE PAINT 2K scratch easily?
If CONCRETE PAINT 2K scratches easily, it can be a sign that the CONCRETE PAINT 2K didn’t cure properly or that the substrate wasn’t stable/ well prepared. It is also important to not wait too long between the layers of CONCRETE PAINT 2K. The following questions can help us find out the cause of the problem:
On what type of concrete did you apply the CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
What preparation did you do before applying the CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
Was the surface pre-treated before applying the CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
At what temperature was the CONCRETE PAINT 2K applied and left to dry ?
How much CONCRETE PAINT 2K was used, and how many m² were covered?
How many coats of CONCRETE PAINT 2K were applied, and how long between each coat?
What was the room’s humidity level when you applied and left the CONCRETE PAINT 2K cure?
Why does my CONCRETE PAINT 1K scratch easily?
Our CONCRETE PAINT 1K is not as scratch resistant as our CONCRETE PAINT 2K. It is not made for heavy wear and tear. For high traffic areas, we recommend using our CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
Our CONCRETE PAINT 1K is not as scratch resistant as our CONCRETE PAINT 2K. It is not made for heavy wear and tear. For high traffic areas, we recommend using our CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
If CONCRETE PAINT 1K peels off, it can be a sign that the substrate, where the CONCRETE PAINT 1K was applied, wasn’t stable/ well prepared. It is also important to not wait too long between the layers of CONCRETE PAINT 1K to avoid peeling issues. The CONCRETE PAINT 1K is also not compatible with plasticizers. The following questions can help us find out the cause of the problem:
On what type of concrete did you apply the CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
What preparation did you do before applying the CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
Was the surface pre-treated before applying the CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
At what temperature was the CONCRETE PAINT 1K applied and left to dry?
When did the peeling of CONCRETE PAINT 1K occur?
Why is my CONCRETE PAINT 2K peeling off? Why isn’t my CONCRETE PAINT 2K sticking to the concrete?
If CONCRETE PAINT 2K peels off, it can be a sign that the substrate, where the CONCRETE PAINT 2K was applied, wasn’t stable/ well prepared. It is also important to not wait too long between the layers of CONCRETE PAINT 2K to avoid peeling issues. The CONCRETE PAINT 1K is also not compatible with high level of plasticizers. The following questions can help us find out the cause of the problem:
On what type of concrete did you apply the CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
What preparation did you do before applying the CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
Was the surface pre-treated before applying the CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
At what temperature was the CONCRETE PAINT 2K applied and left to dry?
How much CONCRETE PAINT 2K was used, and how many m² were covered?
How many coats of CONCRETE PAINT 2K were applied, and how long between each coat?
What was the room’s humidity level when you applied and left the CONCRETE PAINT 2K cure?
When did the peeling of CONCRETE PAINT 2K occur?
Can I come to Krefeld Germany to look at your concrete paint?
While it is possible to come pick up your order at our warehouse and office in Krefeld, we do not have a showroom where you can see the different colours of concrete paint.
How long will the concrete paint stay on my concrete?
Our concrete paints are made to last, we can’t tell you how long it last but with proper care and proper application the paint will last for years.
When will I need to repaint, my concrete painted with concrete paint?
Our concrete paints are made to last, we can’t tell you how long it last but with proper care and proper application the paint will not require touch up quickly.
Do I need a varnish, sealer on top of my concrete paint?
No, you do not need to seal the concrete paint.
How do I clean my CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
CONCRETE PAINT 2K is an water-based epoxy resin paint. We recommend regularly dusting the surface coated with CONCRETE PAINT 2K and, cleaning with water and a mild surfactant.
Can I add more/ less hardener to my CONCRETE PAINT 2K?
No, you must always follow the right mixing ratio or the CONCRETE PAINT 2K will not cure properly. Adding more hardener in the CONCRETE PAINT 2K will not result in the paint curing faster.
Can I paint over expansion joint with CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
Depending on the object, cracks may appear in the CONCRETE PAINT 1K due to the higher elasticity of paint-compatible sealants (e.g., acrylic sealants). Discoloration of the CONCRETE PAINT 1K may also occur when painting over joints.
What is the mixing ratio for 2K Concrete Paint?
The CONCRETE PAINT 2K mixing ratio is 5:1 (A:B), by weight. Always use a scale to measure the correct amount of product you are mixing for accuracy.
Using a precise scale ensures the best results and avoids issues with curing.
How long does CONCRETE PAINT 1K lasts?
What is the pot life of CONCRETE PAINT 1K?
Unlike CONCRETE PAINT 2K, CONCRETE PAINT 1K doesn’t have a pot life because it’s a ready-to-use acrylic paint—there’s no mixing of resin and hardener. You can use CONCRETE PAINT 1K straight from the container and reseal it for future use.
What container sizes are available for Concrete paint?
CONCRETE PAINT 2K Component A: 1.5kg, 5kg, 10kg
CONCRETE PAINT 2K Component B: 0.3kg, 1kg
CONCRETE PAINT 1K: 1kg, 3kg, 6kg
Do I need to buy pigment separately for the Concrete paint?
No, if your chosen colour requires pigment, it will automatically be included in your order.
Does concrete paint have a strong smell?
No, our concrete paint is low in VOCs, meaning minimal odour compared to solvent-based paints.
Can concrete paint be used to fill in cracks and give a smooth result?
No, the concrete paint is not made to fill in cracks and give a smooth finish. The concrete paint is a paint to give a new colour, it will keep the structure of your floor.
Is your concrete paint slip-resistant?
Our concrete paint is only applied thinly and will keep the structure of the existing floor. A surface painted with concrete paint will not be more slippery.
Can I use concrete paint to seal my floor&/walls?
No, our concrete paint isn’t made to seal the floors and walls. Our concrete paint is open to diffusion.
Can I put your concrete paint in my pool?
No, our concrete paint isn’t recommended in pools or area with permanent water contact.
Will CONCRETE PAINT 2K in my garage help with stains?
Yes, our CONCRETE PAINT 2K is easy to clean and the oil, or liquid that could stain the concrete will take longer to soak in, giving you time to remove it.
Can I use CONCRETE PAINT on something else than concrete?
The CONCRETE PAINT is an all-rounder and adheres to all open-pored substrates. You can apply CONCRETE PAINT on wood, stone, concrete, and more.
The most frequently asked questions about Epoxy Resin
How long can the EP Colour Paste be left open without affecting the quality of the result?
We recommend using EP Colour Paste within 6 months after opening.
You can run a small test the open EP Colour Paste with a small amount of epoxy resin before starting a large project or discarding the EP Colour Paste.
How to calculate the amount of resin and hardener I need?
How to calculate the amount of epoxy I need?
How to know how much epoxy resin to buy?
How to know how much resin to buy?
Use our calculator to determine the exact amount of resin and hardener of the ECO and PRO series you need based on your project dimensions. Just put the length, width, and height of your mould into the calculator for accurate results. The calculator is showing the amount of resin and hardener. For coating, we recommend a layer thickness of min. 1.5mm with our ECO or PRO system.
What is the mixing ratio of the ECO, ECO+, ECO MAX, PRO, PRO+, PRO MAX, Ultra Clear, clear?
The mixing ratio of our ECO and PRO series is 2:1 (A:B) by weight. Always use a scale to measure the correct amount of product you are mixing for accuracy. Using a precise scale ensures the best results and avoids issues with curing.
Do you sell equipment for working with epoxy?
Do you sell tools for working with epoxy?
Do you sell accessories for epoxy?
Yes, we offer a variety of equipment for working with epoxy of the ECO and PRO series, including mixing jugs, jerry cans, gloves, scales, sanding materials, release tape, and spray.
Do you sell silicone moulds or any kind of moulds for epoxy work?
No, we don’t sell silicone moulds or any pre-made mould. However, if you're working on a larger project, such as creating a custom table, we offer everything you need to build your own mould, including release tape, silicone, and other essential tools. We also sell RTV silicone rubber, which is a 2-part liquid silicone to make your own reusable mould.
What is the difference between ECO and PRO?
What is the difference between ECO+ and PRO+?
What is the difference between ECO MAX and PRO MAX?
The difference between the ECO and PRO series is that the PRO series (PRO, PRO+ and PRO MAX) is crystal clear, like water.
In addition, the PRO series is UV-stabilised, so it has an additional additive against yellowing and colour-changes due to sunlight. ECO series (ECO, ECO+ and ECO MAX) is also clear but not crystal clear and it has no UV-stabiliser additives.
Our PRO serie is formulated with advanced UV inhibitors (this gives a light blue/purple tint to the A-component PRO), delivering the highest level of UV protection available on the market. In contrast, our ECO serie is not UV-stabilised and is therefore best suited for applications involving darker colours. Please note that no epoxy resin is entirely UV-resistant, and slight yellowing may still occur over time.
What is the recommended working temperature with epoxy resin?
We recommend working at 20°C when not exceeding the maximal pouring height or each resin of the ECO and PRO series.
The min. temperature when working with our epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series is 15°C, this is also the recommended working temperature when working with our ECO+, ECO MAX, PRO+, and PRO MAX Systems on thicker layers.
The working temperature doesn’t only mean the room temperature! It is important that the substrate, and the epoxy itself are also at the right temperature.
How can I prevent epoxy resin from sticking to a wooden mould?
You need to line your wooden mould with our separating tape and then spray the surface with our separating agent spray before pouring epoxy resin from our ECO and PRO series.
It is important to put the separating tape next to each other and not overlapping in your mould. Overlapping the separating tape in the mould, will result in irregularity on the surface and will be tedious to sand after curing of the ECO and PRO series.
Do I need both the release spray and the release tape?
If you are pouring the ECO and PRO series in a silicone mould, the release spray is enough.
When making your own frame to pour the ECO and PRO series, for example for a river table, we recommend both the release tape and spray to facilitate unmoulding of the ECO and PRO series. Using only the separating tape is possible, but the resin of the ECO and PRO series will be hard to free from the frame.
Why should I put the separating spray on my silicone mould?
Putting the separating spray on the silicone mould is increasing the longevity of the silicone mould and easing the unmoulding of the ECO and PRO series. When using our separating spray, it is important to wipe off the excess before pouring your epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series.
Can I use a mould made of latex with epoxy resin?
Can I use a mould made of carbon fibre with epoxy resin?
Can I use a mould made of fibreglass with epoxy resin?
Epoxy Resin of the ECO and PRO series sticks to everything except silicone and some plastic. Therefore, we recommend using silicone mould when working with epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series. We do not recommend latex mould, fibreglass mould or carbon fibre moulds as the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series will stick to it.
How do you apply clear, ultra clear, ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX epoxy resin?
In general, epoxy resin of the ECO (clear) and PRO (ultra clear) series is applied by pouring the mixed resin onto the surface and spreading it evenly. You can use a brush, roller, or squeegee to distribute the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series across the surface. For edges or detailed areas, a brush is often the best tool for precision to apply the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series.
This is a general answer, as the exact method can vary depending on the type of project you're working on with our epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series. (e.g., floors, countertops, moulds, or artwork).
How do apply transparent epoxy resin on a floor?
How to I pour clear epoxy resin on a floor?
How to coat my countertop with clear epoxy resin?
How to use clear epoxy resin on a countertop?
How to coat something with ECO clear transparent?
Instructions for Use TRANSPARENT CLEAR ECO System
We recommend using the clear resin ECO System to apply 2 layers. The first layer ECO System serves as a primer, use 1/4 of the resin ECO (A) and hardener ECO (B) component for this step.
Mix the resin ECO (A) with the hardener ECO (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Ideally, transfer the mixture of ECO System to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin ECO (A) and hardener ECO(B) are completely mixed together.
Pour the mixture ECO onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
Apply the ECO epoxy resin with foam roller over the entire substrate.
Let the first layer ECO cure.
Mix the remaining 3/4 of the resin ECO (A) and hardener ECO (B) for the main coat.
Mix the resin ECO (A) with the hardener ECO (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Ideally, transfer the ECO mixture to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin ECO (A) and hardener ECO (B) are completely mixed together.
Pour the ECO mixture onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
Apply the ECO system with a squeegee or foam roller flooding the entire substrate.
The main coating ECO can be walked on/touches after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy ECO until it has cured completely (at least 7 days). For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
Please ensure that your substrate is dry, stable, level, and free from dirt or separating agents before applying the epoxy. While it is possible to level the substrate using epoxy, please note that this will require more material than the standard recommended quantity.
Instructions for use metallic floor?
Instructions for Use ECO System with 1 Metallic Colour
Start with the Primer 1K
How to apply metallic epoxy on a countertop?
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating of your metallic countertop/flooring.
Mix the resin (A) ECO with the hardener (B) ECO in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Ideally, transfer the resin-hardener ECO Sytem to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin (A) and hardener (B) ECO System are completely mixed together.
Add the supplied metallic pigment to the resin/hardener mixture ECO system. We recommend a colour proportion of approx. 1.5%, e.g., 15g metallic pigment to 1kg resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the coloured ECO System onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
Apply the coloured ECO system with a squeegee and foam roller flooding the entire substrate.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on/touched after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
How to coat a floor with epoxy using 2 colours?
Instructions for use countertop 2 colours?
Instructions for Use ECO System with 2 Colours
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating of your flooring/countertop in multiple colours.
Divide the amount of resin (A) and hardener (B) proportionally between the two colours supplied in your flooring or countert set BEFORE MIXING! It is important to plan the amount for each colour before mixing.
Mix the resin (A) ECO with the hardener (B) ECO for the main colour in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Ideally, transfer the mixed ECO system to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin (A) and hardener (B) are completely mixed together.
Add the supplied MAIN COLOUR to the resin/hardener ECO mixture.
Pour the coloured ECO system onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
Apply the coloured ECO system with a squeegee and foam roller flooding the entire floor. We recommend a layer thickness of 1.5mm.
Now mix and apply the highlight colour of your countertop of flooring ECO system set in the same way and work the colour wet in wet into the base colour as a highlight.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
Recommended quantity of colour pigment/paste:
Metallic powder: 1,5%, e.g. add 15g to 1kg resin+hardener ECO system
RAL Solid Colour Paste: 1%, e.g. add 10g to 1kg resin+hardener ECO System
How to apply ECO RAL on a floor?
Instructions for use epoxy resin RAL on countertop?
Instructions for Use ECO System with RAL EP Colour Paste
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating of solid colour set for countertop or flooring.
Mix the resin (A) ECO with the hardener (B) ECO in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Ideally, transfer the mixed ECO system to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin (A) and hardener (B) ECO are completely mixed together.
Add the supplied RAL paste to the resin/hardener ECO mixture. We recommend a colour proportion of approx. 1%, e.g., 10g pigment paste to 1kg resin + hardener ECO.
Pour the coloured ECO System onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
Apply the coloured ECO System with a squeegee and foam roller flooding the entire substrate.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on/touched after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
How to use your marble kit for floors?
Do you have the Instructions for use of the marble set for countertop?
Instructions for use Marble Flooring / Marble Countertop
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
In the marble epoxy resin set with ECO System, the 1K Primer must be dyed. Dye the 1K PRIMER from the marble epoxy resin set with our supplied WB PIGMENT paste and mix well. We recommend a colour proportion of approx. 10%, for example, 100g colour paste to 1kg 1K PRIMER. It is very important to never add the WB PIGMENT in the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series.
Pour the coloured primer 1k into a paint tray after mixing.
Roll the coloured primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours).
Spray the desired marbling on the primed surface with the Marble Effect Spray and allow it to dry.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating of your marble set.
Mix the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Ideally, transfer the resin-hardener mixture to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin (A) and hardener (B) are completely mixed together.
Pour the resin-hardener mixture ECO system onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
The main coating of ECO System can be walked on/touched after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
Can I use epoxy resin on underheating floor?
Can I use ECO on underheating floor?
Our epoxy resin systems of the ECO and PRO systems can be safely applied over underfloor heating. We recommend activating the heating system after the resin of the ECO and PRO systems has fully cured and running it continuously for several days. This process enhances the chemical reaction of the ECO or PRO resin system, thereby accelerating its curing. Additionally, operating the heating at full capacity improves the resin's heat resistance and scratch resistance.
For optimal results, we suggest maintaining a surface curing period of 24 hours at 20°C with working on a floor with our ECO and PRO systems. Once the surface coated with our ECO or PRO system is no longer tacky, increase the temperature of the floor to 23-25°C for the following 6 days. This procedure will ensure excellent final hardness and durability of the floor coated with ECO or PRO system.
Do I need expansion joint on my epoxy floor?
What do I do with my expansion joint before applying epoxy resin for floor?
As a general rule, expansion joints do not need to be added when applying epoxy resin ECO or PRO system. However, if expansion joints are already present in the substrate to be coated with ECO or PRO system, these should be left open in the resin. The expansion joints can be taped using our masking tape. Once the resin begins to gel (approximately 6 hours after application), the masking tape must be removed to prevent it from bonding with the epoxy resin.
It is crucial to ensure that the underlying structure of the floor is professionally completed prior to the application of the epoxy resin ECO or PRO series or microcement. Specifically, floating screeds should never be in direct contact with the walls to accommodate any potential expansion of the screed. We therefore recommend the installation of "edge insulation strips" during the initial floor construction using screed or levelling compound. During the epoxy resin ECO or PRO system application, it is essential to ensure that the edge joints remain unsealed.
Can I apply ECO, PRO, PRO+, PRO MAX, ECO+, ECO MAX, crystal clear, ultra clear epoxy to vertical surfaces or slopes?
We do not recommend applying our epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series to vertical surfaces or on slopes. Due to their low viscosity, the resin of the ECO and PRO series tends to run, resulting in streaks. While it is possible to apply the epoxy of the ECO and PRO series in multiple layers on slopes or vertical surface, this technique requires significant expertise and precision, which is why we do not recommend applying the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series on vertical surface or slopes.
It is possible to apply the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series to the panels horizontally and then mount the panels vertically. It would also be possible to unmount a door and apply epoxy of the ECO and PRO series before letting it cure and mount the door again after curing of the ECO and PRO series.
How can I do a bottle cap table?
How to cover bottle caps with epoxy resin?
For your project, we recommend using the PRO system with a layer thickness up to 2 cm, or the PRO+ system with a layer thickness up to 5 cm. Both the PRO and PRO+ systems cure crystal clear and provide the highest protection against yellowing, thanks to their UV-resistant properties. We suggest pouring the resin PRO or PRO+ System to a level that fully covers the bottle caps (approximately 2 mm over the bottle cap).
To make the frame of your bottle cap table, we recommend using an aluminium strip, which can be coated with our release tape and release spray. Additionally, you will need accessories such as mixing cups, stirring sticks, and gloves for your bottle cap table.
We advise a processing temperature of 17-20°C with our PRO and PRO+ System for your bottle cap table. It is crucial to maintain this temperature range with our PRO and PRO+ system, as exceeding or falling below it may result in improper curing or boiling of the epoxy.
To secure the bottle caps, you can press them into the gelling 1st layer of epoxy or glue them beforehand. Please note that the bottle caps are hollow, which could allow air to be released into the resin. Therefore, we recommend filling the caps beforehand with, epoxy, acrylic, tile adhesive, or grout filler to avoid this issue.
Is ECO, ECO+, ECO MAX, PRO, PRO+, PRO MAX, ultra clear epoxy resin resistant to chemicals?
Our epoxy resins of the ECO and PRO series are resistant to almost all chemicals after complete chemical curing. However, given the wide range of chemicals, we recommend conducting spot tests in advance to verify compatibility with our ECO and PRO series. Please note that the resin of the ECO and PRO series might get matte when washed with harsh chemicals. It is possible to repolish matte resin of the ECO and PRO series any time after curing. Alternatively, you can apply our 2K PU Topcoat on top of epoxy resin to regive it a glossy finish.
Is your epoxy toxic?
Is your epoxy safe?
Is your resin food safe?
Can I use your epoxy to do serving plates?
Epoxy resin is not classified as hazardous to health according to the GHS08 standard for REACH compliance and is non-toxic under the GHS06 standard. Our resins of the ECO and PRO series are solvent-free and odourless. However, we strongly recommend wearing an FFP2 mask and nitrile gloves during handling the ECO and PRO series. Once fully cured, our resin of the ECO and PRO series is safe for contact with food. Please note that cutting on the resin of the ECO and PRO series may result in micro-particles remaining on your utensils.
Our epoxy resins of the ECO and PRO series are resistant to most chemicals and acids, including those commonly found in food. However, it is possible that components of the cured ECO and PRO series that are not intended for consumption could be dissolved by acids or similar substances.
Can I do aquarium decors with your resin?
Is the epoxy safe for my fish?
Epoxy resin is not classified as hazardous to health according to the GHS08 standard for REACH compliance and is non-toxic under the GHS06 standard. You can use our epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series to make some aquarium decors. Please wait until full chemical curing of the ECO and PRO series before putting the resin in your aquarium. We do not recommend building the aquarium itself out of resin of the ECO and PRO series.
How to make a river table?
How to build a river table?
Do you have instructions to do a river table?
Step 1: Preparation
Have all materials and tools ready and make sure that the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series is at room temperature and that the environment in which you are working is clean and the temperature is around 20°C before starting your river table.
Step 2: Build the mould of your river table
You start by making a mould in the desired dimensions of the epoxy resin table. For this you need four smooth wooden strips and a wooden plate as moulded parts. Then you stick the tape on all parts. Make sure that the tape does not overlap. Glue silicone on the edges of the mouldings and screw the parts together. Let the silicone cure. Then spray the mould evenly with our release agent spray and spread it with a cloth. Then place the wooden planks of the same height in the mould.
Step 3: Priming your river table
Before you start pouring your river table, you should brush the areas of your wooden planks that come into contact with the resin of the ECO and PRO series, as well as the space between the wooden plank where the river will be. with a thin layer of epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series.
This prevents loss of material and the formation of bubbles. You can calculate which quantities of the ECO and PRO series you need with our quantity calculator or by telling me the dimension and height you wish to pour.
For the primer layer we recommend a layer thickness of 0.2cm made with the ECO and PRO series. Weigh the resin and hardener of the ECO and PRO series in the correct ratio and mix the components with a stirrer. Then apply the primer layer of ECO and PRO series laterally to the inner sides of the wooden planks with a brush. Pour the rest of the primer of the ECO and PRO series onto the substrate between the wooden planks. Here too, the layer thickness of the ECO and PRO series should be 0.2-0.3cm. This prevents air chambers and bubbles. Allow the primer layer made with the ECO and PRO series to cure.
Step 4: Pouring your river table
Once the primer made with the ECO and PRO series has cured, you can mix the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series for the main pouring. Now you can mix in the dyes or pigments in addition to the resin and hardener of the ECO and PRO series. You can control the intensity by adding more or less colour pigment onto your epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series. Mix the resin, hardener of the ECO and PRO series and pigments exactly as specified and pour over a stirring rod between the wooden planks. Make sure to not exceed the maximum pouring height of the epoxy resin system that you are using. Allow the resin to cure completely in the mould.
Step 5: Sealing and Polishing
Remove the mould by unscrewing all the screws and cutting through the silicone with a cutter. Then knock out all mould parts with a hammer. Now you can sand, polish and seal the tabletop. You will need either a polishing machine, such as a random orbital sander with the appropriate attachments, or a sanding block and wet sandpaper and some water. You will also need a polishing paste. Put on the fine dust mask and start sanding from the coarsest to the finest grain. If you work with wet sandpaper, remember to water it from time to time. When you are finished with the 3000 grits, wipe the table once. Now you can continue with the polishing of the epoxy resin of the ECO or PRO series. Apply the polishing paste to the machine attachment or a wipe. Polish the ECO and PRO series with little pressure in circular movements. When the desired gloss level is reached, you are finished. Now screw on the table legs to your river table. As a final sealant you can now apply oil, varnish or wax as a sealant on your river table. If you want an even more durable surface, we recommend applying a layer of matte polyurethane resin on your river table. Let the sealant cure before using the epoxy table for the first time.
How to sand epoxy resin ECO, ECO+, ECO MAX, PRO, PRO+, PRO MAX, ultra clear?
To sand the ECO and PRO series, start with a P100 grit sandpaper and gradually work your way up to P3000 grit. If you want an even smoother finish, you can continue sanding your epoxy of the ECO and PRO series up to P10,000 grit, but avoid skipping any grits between stages. Each sanding stage needs to be fully completed, meaning that all marks or scratches left by the previous grit should be removed on your epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series. Skipping a stage may result in haze or unevenness on the ECO and PRO series.
There is no exact rule for when a sanding stage is finished, as it depends on factors like the sanding speed, whether you're sanding dry or wet, and the surface hardness. After each sanding stage, be sure to dust off the ECO and PRO series and spray it with a silicone remover. Then, use a light to carefully check the surface and see if there are any areas that still need extra sanding.
Please note that the epoxy resin must be fully chemically cured before sanding.
Additionally, here are some helpful tips for sanding epoxy of the ECO and PRO series:
Wet sanding: For a finer finish, wet sanding of the ECO and PRO series is recommended. This helps to reduce dust, prevent clogging, and minimize heat buildup. It also creates a smoother, more polished surface.
Work in sections: Sand in small sections to ensure uniformity and check frequently with a light to identify areas that may need more attention.
Keep the surface cool: Overheating can cause the resin of the ECO and PRO series to soften and become gummy. To avoid this, sand in short bursts and let the surface cool down between each session.
Clean the surface regularly: Dust can interfere with the sanding process. Use a microfibre cloth or tack cloth to clean the surface after each sanding stage.
Wear protective gear: Always wear a dust mask or respirator, goggles, and gloves to protect yourself from dust and resin particles during sanding.
What is the density of epoxy resin ECO, ECO+, ECO MAX, PRO, PRO+, PRO MAX, ultra clear?
The density of our epoxy resin systems of the ECO and PRO series is approximately 1.1 g/cm³. Therefore, to calculate the volume in litters, multiply the weight in kilograms of your ECO and PRO series by 0.9. Conversely, if you wish to determine the required weight ECO and PRO series in kilograms based on a specific volume in litters, multiply the volume in litters by 1.1.
Can I apply epoxy on oiled, waxed wood?
In principle, applying epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series to waxed or oiled surfaces is feasible. However, it is essential that these materials are fully absorbed and dried prior to application of the ECO and PRO series. We highly recommend conducting a small test pour in advance to verify compatibility of the ECO and PRO series and ensure optimal results.
How dry should my concrete be before applying epoxy? How dry should my wood be before applying epoxy?
The residual moisture in wood should not exceed 12% before applying the ECO and PRO series. The residual moisture in concrete should not exceed 3% when applying the ECO and PRO series.
How do I build a frame for my river table?
How to build a frame to put epoxy in?
Building a frame for a river table is a crucial step in creating a sturdy and well-formed piece. Here's a step-by-step guide to constructing the frame:
Materials Needed to build a river table frame:
Wood for side panels (e.g., plywood or MDF)
Thin particleboard or MDF (for the base)
EPODEX release tape
EPODEX release agent spray Silicone sealant
Screws or nails
Wood glue (optional)
Saw (to cut wood)
Drill and screwdriver
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Design and Measure:
Determine the dimensions of your river table, including the length, width, and thickness of the river section.
Make sure to leave some margin around the edges to prevent resin from spilling over the sides of the formwork.
Build the Sides:
Cut the wood panels to the appropriate height for the sides of the formwork. This will be the boundary that holds the resin in place.
If you want a thicker resin pour, ensure that the height of the side panels is enough to contain the resin (typically, the sides should be about 5-10 cm taller than the expected resin thickness).
Attach the side panels together using screws or nails, forming a rectangular or square box frame.
Prepare the Bottom:
Cut a thin piece of particleboard or MDF to the size of the base of the formwork. This will be the surface on which the wood slab sits.
Place this board on a flat, level surface to ensure your resin cures evenly.
Seal the Edges:
Apply silicone sealant to the edges of the formwork, particularly where the side panels meet the base. This ensures that no resin leaks out during the pouring process.
Let the silicone cure fully before proceeding.
Apply Release Tape:
Apply EPODEX release tape to the inside of the formwork, especially along the edges where the resin will meet the sides of the frame. This will prevent the epoxy resin from bonding with the formwork and allow for easy removal after curing.
Spray with Release Agent:
After applying the release tape, spray the surface with EPODEX release agent to further ensure that the resin does not stick to the formwork.
Test the Formwork:
Before pouring the epoxy resin, it is a good idea to do a test run with a small amount of resin to check for leaks or issues with the formwork.
Place the Wood Slabs:
Position the live edge wood slabs or your desired tabletop material into the formwork. Make sure they are properly aligned and level.
Pour the Epoxy Resin:
Once the formwork is prepared, you can begin the process of mixing and pouring your epoxy resin into the mould. Ensure you pour slowly to avoid creating air bubbles.
Additional Tips:
Levelling: Make sure the entire formwork is level, especially when using resin with a river section, as this helps ensure an even cure.
Ventilation: Work in a well-ventilated area when applying epoxy resin, as fumes can be harmful.
Cleaning: Clean up any spills immediately to avoid damage to the formwork or surfaces.
Can I add a photo, newspaper, puzzles, concert tickets, flowers inside my epoxy resin ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX ultra clear?
In principle, you can embed photos, puzzles, flowers or concert tickets with epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series. However, it is essential to assess compatibility in advance, as these items may be made from various materials, which could lead to colour degradation or smudging when embed into epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series. We recommend pre-sealing the surface with a transparent acrylic spray in two layers to ensure optimal results.
How do I store my epoxy resin?
How long is epoxy resin ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, PRO MAX, ECO MAX good?
The optimal storage temperature for the ECO series ranges from 10°C to 30°C, while for the PRO series, it is between 15°C and 30°C. The ECO and PRO series must be securely closed and stored in a dark environment to maintain their quality and effectiveness. The epoxy resin can be stored for up to one year before opening and for up to six months after opening, provided it is stored under the recommended conditions.
How long do I need to wait between my epoxy resin layers?
What is the waiting time between layers ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX?
The waiting times between layers depend on the epoxy resin system you are using. You can find all relevant information, including waiting times, for each resin system under the "Learn More" button on the respective product pages. Generally, the next layer can be poured once the first layer is no longer tacky.
When can I draw patterns in my epoxy?
How can I make a design with metallic pigment in epoxy resin?
Determining the optimal time for pattern creation in the ECO and PRO series requires considering several factors.
In summary, the resin of the ECO and PRO series should reach a consistency similar to that of liquid honey when drawing patterns, ensuring that the pigments no longer settle at the bottom.
Can I work the epoxy after curing?
Can I cut and turn epoxy resin ECO, ECO+, PRO, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX, ultra clear?
Which blade do I need to cut epoxy resin?
Once fully cured, your epoxy resin project made with the ECO and PRO series can be easily planed and turned. The curing time varies depending on the system used. For the ECO and PRO systems, the typical curing time is 7 days, while for the PLUS and MAX systems, it is 14 days. Please note that curing times may vary due to temperature fluctuations.
For optimal results, we recommend using a metal blade when cutting the resin.
How can I polish my epoxy resin ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX, ultra clear?
Note: The resin of the ECO and PRO series can only be polished after it has fully chemically cured.
Step 1: Clean the ECO and PRO series After sanding, ensure the surface is free of any dust or debris. Use a microfibre cloth or clean water to wipe down the surface thoroughly.
Step 2: Apply EPODEX Polish
Use a clean, soft cloth or a polishing pad to apply a small amount of EPODEX Polish to the surface of ECO and PRO series.
Be careful not to use too much polish, as this can result in a milky appearance of the ECO and PRO series. Start with a small amount, work it in, and reapply as necessary.
Gently spread the polish over the surface in circular motions. Avoid excessive pressure, as the goal is to work the polish into the resin of the ECO and PRO series without causing damage.
Step 3: Buff the Surface
Once the polish is applied, use a soft, clean microfibre cloth to buff the surface in circular motions. This will help remove any excess polish and achieve a smooth, glossy finish of the ECO and PRO series.
For optimal results, repeat the polishing process until you achieve the desired level of shine.
Step 4: Final Cleaning
After polishing, wipe the surface with a clean cloth to remove any remaining residue. This will leave your epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series with a brilliant, glossy finish.
Important Notes:
Always work in a well-ventilated area.
Wear gloves to protect your hands during the polishing process.
How can I make a semi-transparent epoxy colour?
The semi-transparent dye consists of two pigments: the desired colour tone and a white dye. It is the addition of the white dye that creates the semi-transparency effect. By adjusting the amount of white dye, you can control the intensity of the effect to suit your preferences.
Here are the recommendations to achieve the colours seen on our website:
Why is there no semi-transparent dye in my order?
Why did I get a coloured and a white drop-in instead of a semi-transparent drop-in?
Semi-transparent colours (except white): 40 drops (1.2g) of coloured dye and 20 drops (0.6g) of white dye
Semi-transparent white: 60 drops of white dye (1.8g)
How can I clean my tool after working with epoxy?
How can I clean my accessories after working with epoxy?
The accessories used to mix and apply epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series can generally be cleaned immediately after use. Stir sticks and mixing cups can be wiped clean with a paper towel, and any cured ECO and PRO series resin in the mixing container can be squeezed out.
For brushes and foam rollers used with the ECO and PRO series, we recommend cleaning them promptly after use with acetone for optimal results.
How to prepare the floor before laying epoxy?
It is important to note that the subfloor must be professionally prepared before applying epoxy resin. Specifically, floating screed should never have a direct connection to the wall in order to prevent expansion. For this reason, we recommend installing "edge insulation strips" when laying the screed or levelling compound. When processing the epoxy resin, ensure that the edge joints remain unsealed. Silicone would be an ideal material for this purpose, as it can easily be separated from the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series if necessary.
When can I remove the masking tape when working with epoxy?
It is important to find the right time to remove the masking tape. The epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series should have already reacted and no longer be so liquid that it can still flow when you peel off the tape. If the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series starts to "pull threads," these can simply be cut off with a utility knife while still in a soft state.
Is an epoxy resin floor ECO slippery?
Can I make my ECO resin floor non-slip?
Epoxy resin floors made with the ECO system are classified with a slip resistance category of R9, which is comparable to standard tiles. For applications requiring a non-slip surface, micro glass beads can be added to the PU sealant.
We recommend incorporating 1% micro glass beads by weight into the PU resin and applying the mixture thinly with a foam roller for an even finish. This process ensures enhanced slip resistance while maintaining a durable and professional appearance.
Why did my epoxy resin crack?
Cracking epoxy resin can have different causes, for example, overheating, unstable substrate, etc. The questions below can help us identify the reason why the epoxy resin cracked:
Which epoxy resin did you use?
How thick was the layer?
What was the room temperature when you applied the resin? What temperature was it during curing?
How did you mix the resin?
How much did you mix at once?
How long did the resin sit in the mixing container before being poured into the mould?
Was the resin fully cured within the specified time?
For River Tables: What type of wood did you use, and was it sealed?
Epoxy resin can crack if it overheats or if too much stress is placed on it during curing. Overheating can happen if the resin sits in the mixing container for too long, if the pour height is too high, or if the room is too warm. The reaction between the resin and hardener generates heat, and if any of these factors cause too much heat to build up, the resin can overheat. Overheating can also cause other issues, like:
Uneven surface
Yellowing
Bubbling
Stress can also occur, particularly in River Tables, if the wood hasn't been fully sealed.
If cracks have formed, they can be filled with epoxy resin, and once cured, only a very faint hairline will remain, which will be hardly noticeable.
Why does my epoxy resin have bubble in it?
Bubbles inside the cured epoxy resin can have different causes, it can be a sign that the resin overheated, that the substrate wasn’t sealed properly, etc. The questions below can help us identify the epoxy resin has bubble in it:
Which epoxy resin did you use?
How thick is the layer?
What was the room temperature when you poured the resin? What was the temperature during curing?
How did you mix the resin?
How long did the resin sit in the mixing cup before you poured it?
Was your project fully cured in the time suggested?
For River Tables: What type of wood did you use, and was it sealed?
For floors, countertops, etc.: What is the surface made from?
For other casts with inclusions: Did you add anything to the resin? If so, what?
Bubbles can happen if the resin gets too hot, or if it's too cold, which makes it thicker and stops the defoamer from working properly. Bubbles can also form if the resin is poured onto a porous surface or if porous materials are added to the resin. To prevent this, we recommend sealing the surface or objects first with a thin layer of resin.
If the resin hasn't fully hardened and is still runny or gel-like, applying some heat can help remove the bubbles. Depending on the project, you can gently warm the underside with a blow dryer to soften the resin, or use a heat gun, lighter, or gas torch over the surface until the bubbles pop.
Just be careful not to stay in one spot for too long, as this can cause the surface to burn or become uneven.
If the resin is already cured, you’ll need to sand to open the bubbles and reapply a new layer to fill the opened bubbles.
Why is there epoxy resin missing in my bottle?
Our material is carefully measured and automatically filled into the container to ensure precise quantities. However, it’s common for some material to remain on the edges of the container after pouring. The larger the container, the more material tends to stick. Additionally, thicker materials flow more slowly, and viscosity increases with colder temperatures.
To achieve the best results, we recommend allowing the material to reach room temperature (around 20°C) before use, rather than applying it immediately after delivery. This will ensure smoother handling and optimal performance.
Why does my epoxy resin coating has crater in it?
Why does my epoxy resin coating has holes in it?
Craters inside the cured epoxy resin can have different causes, it can be a sign that the resin was applied too thinly, that the substrate wasn’t sealed properly, etc. The questions below can help us identify the epoxy resin has craters in it:
What is the substrate made of?
How was the surface prepared?
Was the surface pre-treated before applying the epoxy resin?
How much epoxy resin was used, and how many square metres were covered?
Was the surface level?
For floors:
Were nail shoes worn while walking on the epoxy?
Craters can form if too little epoxy resin was used (causing curing problems) or if the substrate is very porous and absorbs too much resin.
Craters can also happen if nail shoes were worn, as they can pierce the primer, causing holes that let the resin seep through.
The good news is, fixing craters is simple. We recommend applying another layer of at least 1.5mm.
Why is my epoxy is yellow?
Yellowing epoxy resin can have different causes, it can be a sign that the resin overheated, etc. The questions below can help us identify the epoxy resin is yellow:
If the yellowing happened right after curing:
Which epoxy resin did you use?
How thick is the layer of resin?
What was the room temperature when you poured the resin and during curing?
How did you mix the resin?
How long did the resin sit in the mixing cup before being poured?
Was your project fully cured within the suggested time?
If the yellowing happened after some time:
All epoxy resins will yellow over time, but some are more resistant than others. Our PRO series is UV-stabilised, so it’s less likely to yellow than our ECO series, but no resin is completely UV-proof. If yellowing happened after curing, the resin was exposed to UV light.
Yellowing can happen if the resin gets too hot, causing immediate yellowing, or if it is exposed to UV light over time, which causes long-term yellowing. This can even happen indoors, as sunlight coming through a window can cause yellowing.
Does epoxy resin shrink after curing?
Please note that all our epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series shrink by about 1%. In larger projects, such as a river table, this shrinkage can be more noticeable. When using wooden moulds, the resin tends to sink at the corners. With silicone moulds, the edges often rise slightly, and the centre may sink a little. This is a natural part of the chemical process and unfortunately can’t be avoided, but it can be fixed by sanding or by repouring a new layer of epoxy resin.
Glow in the dark epoxy resin not glowing?
How thick do I need to apply the glow in the dark to see it?
To achieve a good glow with the Glow-in-the-Dark pigments, we recommend using a layer thickness of at least 1cm. The thicker the layer, the stronger the glow. This is also the reason why our glow-in-the-dark pigments aren't available for countertops and floors.
Why isn’t my epoxy resin curing?
Curing problem with epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series can have different reasons. The questions below can help us identify the epoxy resin has curing problem:
Which epoxy resin did you use?
How long ago did you pour it?
How thick is the layer you applied?
What was the room temperature when you poured and left the resin to cure? (Did the temperature drop overnight?)
How did you measure the mixing ratio (by weight or volume)? Did you use a scale?
How did you mix the resin? How did you check that all parts were fully combined?
Can you send us pictures of the containers?
If the resin hasn’t fully cured, it could be because of one of these reasons:
• The mixing ratio was wrong
• The layer is too thin
• The room or surface was too cold
• The wrong product was used, or it wasn't mixed enough
If the resin is still reacting, try increasing the room temperature to help it cure. If it hasn’t changed after 24-48 hours, the sticky material will need to be removed.
Why is my epoxy resin partly not cured?
Partial curing problem with epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series can have different reasons. The questions below can help us identify the epoxy resin has partial curing problem:
Which epoxy resin did you use?
When did you pour the resin?
How thick was the layer you applied?
What was the room temperature when you poured and let the resin cure? (Did the temperature drop overnight?)
How did you measure the mixing ratio (by weight or volume)? Did you use a scale?
How did you mix the resin? How did you check that all components were fully combined?
How many times did you mix the entire amount?
Did you transfer the resin into a new mixing container and mix it again?
Did you scrape the bottom and sides of the mixing container to make sure all the material was used?
Could you send us pictures of the containers?
If the resin hasn’t fully cured after the recommended time, the following reasons could be the cause:
• The resin wasn’t mixed thoroughly, so the components didn’t fully combine.
• The surface is uneven, and some areas are too thin, which can prevent proper curing.
• The wrong mixing ratio was used, or it was measured by volume instead of weight.
• The resin wasn’t transferred or scraped from the edges and bottom of the container, leaving unmixed material.
If there are sticky areas, these can be scraped off. After that, clean the areas with acetone and let the solvent evaporate for a few hours. Then, sand the area, remove any dust, and re-coat.
Can I apply epoxy resin ECO, PRO, PRO+, ECO+, PRO MAX, ECO MAX to Styrofoam, siporex, masonry block, absorbent surfaces?
It is possible to apply epoxy resin on porous surfaces, but this requires preparation. Absorbent surfaces must be primed many times over to achieve a satisfactory result. We recommend priming with epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series and not with PRIMER 1K on very absorbent surfaces. We recommend proceeding in many layers and plan more epoxy than normally recommended. Apply as many priming layers of epoxy resin as required to seal the absorbent surface.
Can I apply epoxy resin on wood?
Yes, you can apply epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series on wood. We recommend priming the wood before applying the epoxy resin. Some wood requires more than 1 priming layer. The surface must be sealed before pouring. If the wood absorbs all the resin from the priming layer, apply another primer layer, let it cure and then proceed with the main pour.
Do I need a primer with transparent epoxy resin ECO, PRO, PRO+, ECO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX?
Do not use 1K Primer when working with epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series in transparent colours, semi-transparent or clear. The 1K primer is coloured which will be visible under the transparent or semi-transparent epoxy resin.
For clear, transparent colours, semi-transparent colours, we recommend priming with a thin layer of same epoxy resin used for the casting. Depending on the substrate, 1 or more layers of epoxy resin might be required to prime.
How hot does the epoxy resin ECO, PRO, PRO+, ECO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX get when curing?
When the processing temperature and the max pouring height are respected the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series do not get hotter than 60°C.
When the resin overheats (the processing temperature and/or max. pouring height aren’t respected) the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series can easily reach temperature over 100°C. This causes the resin to crack, yellow, and have bubbles.
What is the heat resistance of your epoxy resin, ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX, ultra clear?
After complete chemical curing our epoxy resins for the ECO and PRO series are heat resistant up to 60°C. Increasing the heat resistance by slowly heating the cured resin is possible. To do so, the resin must be place on a stable surface to prevent it from bending and deforming. Heat the resin until it gets soft and let it cool back down completely. Repeat the process by slowly increasing the heating temperature (1. 65°C, then 70°C, 75°C etc) With this technic it is possible to increase the heat resistance to about 80°C. For larger pieces which can’t be easily heated, it is possible to apply a heat-resistant topcoat such as our PU resin which is heat resistant up to 80°C.
Can I add my WB PIGMENT into the epoxy resin, ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX, ultra clear?
No, the WB PIGMENTs aren’t compatible with the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series.
WB PIGMENTs are included in some Countertops and Flooring epoxy resin set to colour the 1K PRIMER.
Can I add LED into epoxy resin ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX, ultra clear?
Yes, LED can be added into the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO Series. We recommend adding it to clear non-dyed resin, to transparent coloured, or semi-transparent coloured epoxy resin.
Please note that on thicker layer, we recommend adding fewer drop-in dyes as the colours looks darker on thicker layer. We recommend adding the dye little by little, the colour of the uncured resin remain the same after curing.
Do not use metallic pigment, RAL colour paste, Neon, or glow-in-the-dark pigment when working with LED. These pigments are opaque, and the LED won’t be visible.
How do I apply epoxy resin for arts, crafts, and other castings?
How to coat a surface (painting or table, etc) with epoxy resin?
To apply epoxy resin for projects like jewellery, bookmarks, lamps, or other crafts:
1. Surface preparation (if applicable): If you're pouring resin onto a surface like wood, or coating a table or a painting, apply a thin layer of epoxy resin as a primer to avoid material loss and blistering. Mix the resin (A-component) and hardener (B-component) thoroughly in a 2:1 ratio until streak-free. Use a brush or roller to apply the primer evenly and let it cure completely.
2. Prepare the resin mixture: Mix the resin and hardener thoroughly, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup to ensure no unmixed material remains. Transfer the mixture to a clean cup and mix again.
3. Pour or cast the resin: Immediately pour the mixed resin into your mould or onto the prepared surface. Work quickly to avoid overheating the mixture in the cup.
4. Avoid moisture during curing: Keep the resin away from water or high humidity during curing to prevent imperfections like white patches. Allow the resin to fully cure, which may take up to 7/14 days depending on the conditions.
For detailed instructions and tips, check out our step-by-step video tutorials! 🎥
How do I apply epoxy resin to the edges of a table/counter to achieve a nice result?
You should wait until the resin has gelled. This should be monitored closely, and when you notice that the resin has a honey-like texture and is thick, you should remove the tape from the sides, and then the resin will flow down to the edges. Just be careful - protect the floors and furniture that you don’t want to get stained with resin.
When can I apply a new layer of resin?
For the ECO system, at a temperature of 20 degrees, after 6 hours; for the PRO system, after 12 hours; for ECO+ and PRO+, after 48-72 hours; and for ECO MAX and PRO MAX, after 72-96 hours.
How much pigment/ dyes do I have to add to the epoxy resin?
How to dye or pigment or colour the epoxy resin?
How to dye or pigment or colour the ECO, ECO+, ECO MAX, PRO, PRO+, PRO MAX, Ultra Clear?
If you are using pigments and dyes for epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series, here are the percentage amounts for colouring resin and hardener (The amount in grams is given for 1kg of resin and hardener):
- Metallic pigments, neon pigments, glow-in-the-dark pigments: 1.5% of the weighted amount of resin and hardener (15g)
- “Drop-Ins” Transparent colours (except white and grey): 60 drops (1.8g),
- “Drop-Ins” Transparent white, grey, and black colours: 20 drops (0.6g)
- “Drop-Ins” Semi-transparent colours (except white): 40 drops (1.2g) coloured colour and 20 drops (0.6g) white colour
- “Drop-Ins” Semi-transparent white: 60 drops white colour (1.8g)
- “EP-Colour paste” RAL colours: 1% of the weighted amount of resin and hardener (10g)
It is important to not add more liquid Dye than recommended! Adding too much liquid into the resin and hardener mixture can cause curing problem. Do not add more than 1% RAL EP Colour Paste, pigment paste solid colour. Do not add too much drop-in dyes as well.
Why do I have white lines/ white spots/ white streaks, a greasy milky finish over my resin project?
This is called amine blush—a reaction between uncured epoxy resin and moisture/water. It can also occur at low room temperatures, high humidity level and in very thin layers. If the resin has never fully cured, there is a risk of amine blush even months after the epoxy has been applied.
When a water-based coating (like a painting) is sealed with epoxy, the remaining moisture in the paint can cause amine blush. This can also happen on surfaces where the resin has been applied over a water-based primer that is not completely dry.
Let the resin cure completely and first try to remove the amine-blush with white vinegar. This might leave the surface matt. If the amine-blush can’t be removed with white vinegar, you’ll need to sand it to remove it.
we recommend applying a sealer or another layer on top of the epoxy once you remove the amine-blush. Applying another layer or a sealer will prevent the resin from getting amine-blush again.
How can I remove the cured epoxy resin?
How do I clean up dried epoxy resin?
Is it possible to remove hardened epoxy resin from a surface?
What should I do if epoxy resin has dried on my table/floor?
Cured epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series can only be removed by sanding. If the resin is absorbed into the substrate, and you wish to remove it completely, you will also need to remove part of the substrate where the resin is absorbed.
What can I use to clean the tools from the epoxy resin?
You can use acetone as a solvent to clean your tools effectively after using the ECO and PRO series.
It is possible to let the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series cure in the mixing cup. After curing the epoxy can be easily removed from the cup by tapping the bottom to pop the resin out.
In which container size am I getting the products?
We are having different container sizes and always try to send each product in the biggest container-size possible. However, sometimes certain sizes are getting out of stock. In this case you will get the product in smaller containers. For example, if you are buying 3kg, you will usually get a 2kg container of resin and a 1kg container of hardener if it is on stock.
If a 2kg resin container is not on stock, you will receive two containers of 1kg each to get you the purchased product as soon as possible.
Can I get my order in small bottles only?
All orders are packed with the biggest size bottle/jerry can be available to achieve this quantity. It is not possible to change the size of the container for your order. If you wish to receive your order in smaller quantities, we kindly ask that you order several small packages. We know that the price of many small quantities is higher than the price of one large quantity and we can’t offer a discount on an order with many small quantities and smaller packaging cost more money to produce and ship. The cost of each bottle and labels must be taken into consideration. Furthermore, smaller containers often do not fit into 1 parcel which also increases the price of shipping which we are paying for.
How to maintain/ clean epoxy surfaces, like epoxy floors, epoxy countertops, epoxy tables?
We recommend cleaning the cured epoxy with mild surfactants.
We do not recommend using acid-based, chlorine-containing cleaners, or alkalis as they can mattify the surface or even degrade it.
What is the viscosity of the epoxy resin?
The viscosity of ECO is 700mPa·s, of PRO 530mPa·s, of ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX and PRO MAX 350mPa·s.
What is the
SHORE hardness of the epoxy resin after curing?
The SHORE hardness after curing (D1) of our flooring epoxy kit (ECO) is 87, of the PRO epoxy resin it is 82, of the ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX and PRO MAX 80.
What will happen if I put a hot plate on my resin?
What will happen if my cured epoxy resin gets hotter than 60°C?
If the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series get hotter than 60°C, it will deform.
We recommend using coasters or a mat when drinking out of a hot mug or eating out of a hot plate.
Can I do a candle holder out of epoxy resin ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX, ultra clear?
Yes, you can do a candle holder out of our epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series. Please note that the resin will soften the few first times that you are using the candle holder. This is normal, do not apply pressure or the resin will deform. Let the resin cool down so that it doesn’t deform. After using it a few times the resin heat resistance will increase, and the resin will eventually no longer soften when the candle holder is used.
Can I put my epoxy resin in the dishwasher?
We do not recommend putting your epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series in the dishwasher.
Can I put my epoxy resin in the microwave?
We do not recommend putting your epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series in the microwave.
My room temperature is 21°C is this ok to use epoxy resin?
Even 1°C over the recommended processing temperature can lead the resin to overheat. If you can’t have the room temperature at 20°C, we recommend that you do not pour a layer close to the max pouring height.
Can I use epoxy resin ECO+ or PRO+ system if my river table has a thickness of 5.1cm?
No, over 5cm we recommend using ECO MAX PRO MAX. Even pouring 0,1mm over the maximum pouring height can lead to overheating.
Can I buy epoxy resin components individually?
Yes, the individual components are available individually. Please make sure to always buy the right mixing ratio for the ECO and PRO series it is 2 for 1. For example, 1kg A-component Resin and 0,5kg B-component hardener.
Can I use another mixing ratio for my resin and hardener?
No, you must use the right mixing ratio. Using another mixing ratio will cause the resin to not cure.
Can I put more hardener?
No, you can’t put more hardener than recommended. Adding more hardener will not result in a faster curing, it will cause the resin to not cure. It is important to always respect the mixing ratio.
How can I thicken my resin but keep it transparent?
Adding any thickening agent such as microglass beads will result in a not transparent resin. The only way to have a thicker resin but it transparent is to let the resin set before using. Be careful when using this technic, you must watch your resin closely as it can quickly overheat. Mix it and stay close until the resin has the desired consistency.
Can I work with epoxy resin ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX, ultra clear in a humid room?
No, we do not recommend working with the epoxy from the ECO and PRO series when the humidity level is over 60%. It is important to have a humidity level under 60% until the resin is fully cured. If the humidity level is too high, it can cause whitening of the resin also called amine-blush.
Can I work the epoxy resin in my apartment? Can I use epoxy resin, ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX, ultra inside?
Yes, you can use our products inside without problem. It is important to follow the recommended temperature and maximum pouring height so that the resin doesn’t overheat. When used properly the resin doesn’t smell nor fume. All our epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series are solvent-free and not dangerous to health.
I’m working inside, can I open a window after pouring my epoxy resin?
It is important to not open window when the resin is uncured. The humidity and temperature change from outside can cause whitening of the resin also called amine-blush.
Can you tell me how much resin and hardener ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX, ultra clear, I need to have 3kg mixture?
Yes, to have a 3kg mixture of the ECO and PRO series, you need to use a 2 to 1 ratio. This means that for 3kg total weight, you need 2kg resin A-component, and 1kg hardener B-component.
How can I pour and not have lines between my layers of epoxy resin, ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX ultra clear?
There is 2 ways to proceed.
1. Sand between the layers. Be careful to wait for curing and vacuum up the sanding dust before pouring.
2. Apply the next layer while the previous layer isn’t completely cured. You need to wait until the first layer has the consistency of a liquid-gel. But be careful with this method. The layers will react with each other, pour each layer with a thickness inferior to the max pouring height and lower the room temperature.
If you pour the layers and do not sand or pour too late and miss the right time to pour, the line will only be visible when looking perpendicularly (90°)
Do I need to polish between my layers of epoxy resin?
No, only polish at the end when the last layers are chemically cured if you wish to polish.
Can I use your wax on epoxy resin?
No, we do not recommend our wax for the epoxy resin. Our wax is made to seal chalk paint. For epoxy resin, we recommend our Polish.
Can I apply the polish on the wood part of my river table?
We recommend using the polish on the resin part of the table. For the wood, we recommend using an oil for wood.
Why is my epoxy resin staying matte after sanding?
To remove these marks, you can sand the resin without any problem. Start with P100 grit and gradually sand up to P3,000 grit. If desired, you can also sand up to P10,000 grit until you achieve the desired effect, without skipping grit levels. Each sanding step must be completed, meaning that any damage caused by the previous grit size must be eliminated. If a sanding step with a specific grit size is skipped, some opacity may remain.
It is not possible to generally determine when sanding is complete, as it depends on many factors, such as the rotation speed, whether sanding is done dry or wet, and the "hardness" of the surface. We recommend dusting off the surface after each sanding and spraying it with an anti-silicone product. If you then shine a light over it, you will clearly see where further work is needed.
Why is my sanded and polished epoxy resin now milky and still matte?
If your epoxy resin gets milky and matte after sanding and polishing it means that either the sanding wasn’t done properly or too much polish was applied.
How do I use your polish?
It is important to use only a small amount of polish at a time. Take an amount about the size of a dime and work it into the surface. If the table needs more polishing, apply another small amount. Never use too much polish at once, as this makes it difficult to apply and can leave the surface looking milky and unclear, rather than mirror-like.
How can I achieve a mirror like finish on my epoxy resin, ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX?
The resin from our ECO and PRO series have a glossy finish. If you want an even glossier finish, you can sand and polish.
I have sanded my resin, and do I need to polish before applying the sealer, topcoat?
No, never polish between the layers.
How fine do I need to sand between my layers of epoxy resin?
When sanding between epoxy layers, it's recommended to use grit between P180 and P320. This range provides enough surface roughness for proper adhesion without creating deep scratches that could show through the next layer.
• For thick layers or structural bonding: P180–P220 grit works well.
• For clear, glossy finishes: P240–P320 grit is ideal to avoid visible scratches.
After sanding, always clean the surface thoroughly to remove dust and debris before applying the next layer.
Where can I find your white epoxy resin flooring set? Where can I find your white epoxy resin countertop set?
We do not have a white epoxy floor or countertop in store because the resin will yellow eventually and the floor or countertop will not stay white for long. All the sets available under our epoxy resin ECO system countertop and flooring are colours that hides the yellowing.
We also do not recommend using the PRO System to do a white floor or countertop. Yes the PRO system contains UV additive to help with yellowing but yellowing will still occur. We do not recommend white epoxy floor.
I have sanding marks on my epoxy resin, if I apply a new layer will you see the marks?
We recommend sanding to a grit of P240-P320 between the layers. A coarser grit could still be visible between the layers.
Why is the epoxy resin I poured in a silicone mould matte?
It is important to use a glossy silicone form if you wish to obtain a glossy finish. Using a matte silicone form will result in the epoxy being matte.
If your epoxy is matte, you can polish it to achieve a glossy finish. If the form is irregular and polishing it is difficult, you can also apply a clear acrylic spray to make it glossy. Make sure to wait the complete chemical curing before polishing or applying an acrylic spray.
With which hardener B-component is the ECO A-component resin compatible?
The ECO A-component resin is compatible with the ECO B-component, ECO+ B-component, and ECO MAX B-component.
With which hardeners B-component is the PRO A-component resin compatible?
The PRO A-component resin is compatible with the PRO B-component, PRO+ B-component, and PRO MAX B-component.
Is there a ECO+, ECO MAX, PRO+, PRO MAX A-component resin?
No there is only a ECO A-component and PRO A-component resin.
Can I mix ECO and PRO Series together?
We do not recommend mixing ECO and PRO series in 1 pour. It is possible to apply a layer of PRO System on top of a layer of ECO system. But we do not recommend mixing ECO and PRO together in one pour.
Can I use epoxy resin PRO if I’m pouring a large object that has 2.1cm thickess?
No, we do not recommend pouring large objects over the maximum pouring height of any ECO or PRO series epoxy resin.
Can I mix metallic pigment and RAL EP colour paste in my epoxy resin ECO, PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX, ultra clear?
Yes, you can mix pigment. Please note that both the metallic pigment and the RAL colours are opaque and they can hide each other. We recommend testing on a small quantity to find the ratio that works for you.
Can I mix different metallic pigments together?
Yes, you can mix different metallic pigments together. We recommend testing on a small quantity to find out the ratio that works for the effect you are looking for.
Can I mix different drop-in dyes together in one mixture?
Yes, you can mix different colour paste together.
Our Drop-in dye follow the theory of colours. For example, mixing yellow and blue will result in green. Please note that adding white will give a semi-transparent colour.
Can I mix transparent drop-in dyes and metallic pigment in one mixture?
Yes, you can mix metallic pigment and drop-in dyes.
Please note that the metallic pigments are opaque at 1,5% and that it might cover the drop-in. We recommend testing on a small quantity to find out the ratio that works for you.
Can I mix drop-in transparent dye with RAL colour paste in one resin?
Yes, in theory you could but this is not necessary. We have all colours available in Drop-in transparent dye and all colours available in RAL colour paste.
The colour pastes are opaque and will hide the drop-in dye. We recommend choosing a RAL colour of your choice instead of mixing RAL and drop-in.
What are neon pigments?
Neon pigments are not glowing in the dark. These are only very intensive colours known as neon.
How can I pour different colours and not have them mix with each other?
To achieve different colours separately, you will need to prepare many mixtures. You can also mix a large quantity of transparent resin and hardener and dye part of it in different colours. If you do not want the colour to mix, you’ll need to wait until the resin has a gel-like consistency before pouring it. Be careful when using this technic, you’ll need to watch your resin closely ot make sure it doesn’t overheat.
Can I use epoxy resin from the PRO and ECO series in my unheated garage or workshop?
It is important to always have the right temperature when working epoxy resin. Make sure that your working space has constantly the right working temperature for epoxy resin. The temperature must be constant day and night.
How to apply epoxy resin ECO on floors?
It is important when working on floors with our epoxy resin floor set ECO that the floor has a temperature of 20°C. Please take into consideration that when the room temperature is about 20°C, tiles will be colder.
Do I need to remove the tree bark from my plank that I will use for my river table?
Yes, we recommend removing the tree bark or any looses pieces of wood before using it in a river table. Leaving the tree bark or looses pieces of wood, will compromise the bond between the resin and the wood.
Can I apply epoxy resin for floor ECO to a wooden floor?
To apply ECO resin for floor to a wooden floor, make sure that the floor is levelled and has no cracks between the wooden floor. The epoxy resin kit ECO is applied very thinly and can take little bit movement. If the floor is moving a lot, we recommend stabilising it first with ECO epoxy resin and fibreglass mat.
Can I apply epoxy resin floor ECO to a vinyl floor?
Yes, epoxy resin ECO flooring set can be applied to a vinyl floor. It is also possible to add a vinyl sticker before applying the epoxy ECO to achieve what is known as a 3D floor.
Can I apply epoxy resin floor ECO to a PVC floor?
No, epoxy resin can’t be applied to PVC floor, The PVC must be removed before applying the ECO resin for floors.
Can I use a PVC mould to pour epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series?
Epoxy doesn’t stick well to PVC but it is hard to remove the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series from a rigid mould without breaking it. If you don’t mind breaking your mould to unmould the resin, you can use the PVC mould with our separating agent spray to pour our ECO and PRO series.
Can I apply epoxy ECO for floors on laminated flooring?
We do not recommend putting epoxy resin ECO for laminated floors. We recommend removing the laminated floor before using our ECO resin for floors. If you wish to only protect the laminated floor with a thin coat of transparent resin, you recommend that you look at our PU resin available in matte or glossy.
What can I add into epoxy resin form the ECO and PRO series?
Yes, almost anything can be added to the epoxy resin ECO and PRO series. Only some plastics do not stick to the epoxy resin ECO and PRO series. The object that you want to include should be able to resist to temperature of at least 60°C as this is the temperature that the resin ECO and PRO series will reach while normally curing. If your object is fragile or very porous, we recommend sealing it with a thin layer of epoxy resin from the ECO or PRO series. If your object could discolour (such as real flower), we recommend sealing with a clear acrylic spray before adding it into the epoxy from the ECO and PRO series.
Why did my epoxy resin river table deformed? Why is my epoxy resin project made with the ECO or PRO series is deformed?
When doing a river table, it is important to have the right support under it to prevent it from deforming. If your table deforms, take the table feet out, put your river table on an even surface and heat the resin to soften it. Put weight on the epoxy resin river table to make it straight again and let it cool down in that position. Once the river table is straight again put the feet again and add some support to prevent it from bending again.
If your epoxy resin project made with the ECO or PRO series is deforming heat it, to soften it, bring it in the right form and let it cool down in that position. Add support if needed to prevent it from deforming again.
Why do I need to prime with epoxy resin the and the river part of my river table?
You need to prime the wood that will touch the river and the river space of your river table to prevent material lost through absorption and reduce the tension on the epoxy during the main pour of the river table. If you do not prime your river table, the wood will put tension to the curing resin of the ECO or PRO series that will lead to cracking.
Can I apply epoxy resin, ECO PRO, ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX outside?
We do not recommend working with epoxy resin form the ECO and PRO series outside as you can’t control the temperature and humidity level outdoors. We recommend using epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series indoors, let it cure in a controlled environment and then bring it outside if you wish.
Are your resins from the ECO and PRO series self-levelling?
All our resins from the ECO and PRO series (ECO System, ECO+ System, ECO MAX System, PRO System, PRO+ System, and PRO MAX System) are self-levelling and not water based.
Can I mix different RAL EP colour paste together in my epoxy resin ECO, PRO, PRO+, ECO+, ECO MAX, PRO MAX. ultra clear?
Yes, you can mix different colour paste together. Our RAL EP colour paste follow the theory of colours. For example, mixing yellow and blue will result in green.
What are the ECO and PRO series?
The ECO serie is the ECO System, the ECO+ System, and the ECO MAX System.
The PRO serie is the PRO System, the PRO+ System, and the PRO MAX System.
What are the container sizes of the ECO and PRO series?
Component A ECO Resin and PRO Resin come in 0.5kg, 1kg, 2kg, 3kg, 5kg, 10kg bottles and jerry cans.
Component B ECO hardener, ECO+ hardener, ECO MAX hardener, PRO hardener, PRO+ hardener, PRO MAX hardener, come in 0.25kg, 0.5kg, 1kg, 2kg, 3kg, 5kg, 10kg bottles and jerry cans.
What is the ECO system?
The ECO system is the Epoxy Resin ECO A-component resin and the Hardener B-component ECO.
What is the ECO+ system?
The ECO+ system is the Epoxy Resin ECO A-component resin and the Hardener B-component ECO+.
What is the ECO MAX system?
The ECO MAX system is the Epoxy Resin ECO A-component resin and the Hardener B-component ECO MAX.
What is the PRO system?
The PRO system is the Epoxy Resin PRO A-component resin and the Hardener B-component PRO.
What is the PRO+ system?
The PRO system is the Epoxy Resin PRO A-component resin and the Hardener B-component PRO+.
What is the PRO MAX system?
The PRO system is the Epoxy Resin PRO A-component resin and the Hardener B-component PRO MAX.
What is the maximum pouring height of the ECO System?
The maximum pouring height of the ECO System is 1cm at 20°C.
Are WB PIGMENT and EP Colour paste the same thing?
No, WB PIGMENTs are water-based pigment for paint, varnishes and microcement.
EP Colour pastes are RAL colour paste for the ECO and PRO series.
What is the maximum pouring height of the PRO System?
The maximum pouring height of the PRO System is 2cm at 20°C.
What is the minimum layer thickness with the epoxy resin ECO for floors, countertop, and coatings?
The minimum layer thickness with the ECO resin for floors, countertop and coatings is 1.5mm.
What is the pot life of the ECO system?
The pot life of the ECO system is 25minutes for 100g at 20°C. For larger quantities and higher temperatures, the pot life is shorter.
How long do I need to wait before I can apply another layer of ECO system?
A 1cm layer of ECO system needs 6h at 20°C before you can apply a new layer of ECO. If the layer of ECO is less than 1cm or the temperature is less than 20°C, the time before you can apply a new layer of ECO will be longer.
What is the gelling time/ processing time of the ECO System?
A thickness of 1.5-3mm of ECO System has a gel-time of 120minutes at 20°C.
A thickness of 1cm of ECO System has a gel-time of 25minutes at 20°C.
How long is the drying, hardening, curing time of the ECO System?
The ECO system can be touches, and walked on (mechanical hardening) after about 20-24h at 20°C. The ECO System is completely chemically cured after 7 days at 20°C. The ECO system is sensitive to water and scratches until the full chemical curing of 7days. If the temperature is below 20°C, the ECO System needs longer to cure.
What is the minimum processing temperature, and working temperature of the ECO and PRO Series?
The minimum working temperature (substrate temperature, resin temperature, hardener temperature, and room temperature) as well, as the curing temperature with the ECO and PRO series is 15°C. We do not recommend using the ECO and PRO series under 15°C. The temperature when using the ECO and PRO series should always be minimum 15°C during both processing and curing.
What is the recommended processing temperature, and working temperature of the ECO System and PRO System?
The recommended working temperature (substrate temperature, resin temperature, hardener temperature, and room temperature) as well, as the curing temperature with the ECO System and PRO System is 20°C. We do not recommend using the ECO and PRO System at more than 20°C. If you must work the ECO and PRO system at 21-22°C, never pour close to the maximum pouring height.
What is the minimal layer thickness with the ECO system or PRO system? How thick do I need to apply the ECO System and PRO system on floor and countertop?
The minimum layer thickness at 20°C with the ECO system and the PRO System is 1.5mm.
What is the gelling time of the ECO system when pouring a layer of between 1.5mm and 3mm thickness?
The gelling time of the ECO System when pouring a layer between min. 1.5mm and max. 3mm at 20°C is 60minutes.
What is the gelling time of the ECO system when pouring a layer of 1cm thickness?
The gelling time of the ECO System when pouring a layer of 1cm thick at 20°C is 25minutes.
What are the properties of the ECO series?
The ECO series has a glossy finish, is clear, low in VOC, bubble free but not UV stabilised. We recommend using the ECO series with a colourant. For white and transparent castings, we recommend choosing the PRO series.
What is the pot life of the PRO system?
The pot life of the PRO system is 65minutes for 145g at 20°C. For larger quantities and higher temperatures, the pot life is shorter.
How long do I need to wait before I can apply another layer of PRO system?
A 2cm layer of PRO system needs 12h at 20°C before you can apply a new layer of PRO. If the layer of PRO is less than 2cm or the temperature is less than 20°C, the time before you can apply a new layer of PRO will be longer.
What is the gelling time of the PRO system when pouring a layer between 1.5mm and 3mm thickness?
The gelling time of the PRO System when pouring a layer between 1.5mm and 3mm thick at 20°C is 120minutes.
What is the gelling time of the PRO system when pouring a layer of 1cm thickness?
The gelling time of the PRO System when pouring a layer of 1cm thick at 20°C is 90minutes.
What is the gelling time of the PRO system when pouring a layer of 2cm thickness?
The gelling time of the PRO System when pouring a layer of 2cm thick at 20°C is 60minutes.
How long is the drying, hardening, curing time of the PRO System?
The PRO system can be touches, and walked on (mechanical hardening) after about 20-24h at 20°C. The PRO System is completely chemically cured after 7 days at 20°C. The PRO system is sensitive to water and scratches until the full chemical curing of 7days. If the temperature is below 20°C, the PRO System needs longer to cure.
What are the properties of the PRO series?
The PRO series has a glossy finish, is ultra clear, VOC free, bubble free and is UV stabilised. We recommend using the PRO series in transparent clear, white or with colourants.
What is the pot life of the PRO+ system and ECO+ System?
The pot life of the PRO+ system and ECO+ System is 6hours for 10kg at 20°C. For larger quantities and higher temperatures, the pot life is shorter.
How long do I need to wait before I can apply another layer of PRO + system and ECO+ System?
A 5cm layer of PRO+ system and ECO+ System need 48h to 72h at 20°C before you can apply a new layer of PRO+ and ECO+ System. If the layer of PRO+ and ECO+ System are less than 5cm or the temperature is less than 20°C, the time before you can apply a new layer of PRO+ and ECO+ System will be longer.
What is the gelling time of the PRO+ system and ECO + System when pouring a layer between 1.5mm and 3mm thickness?
The gelling time of the PRO+ System and ECO+ System when pouring a layer between 1.5mm and 3mm thick at 20°C is 360minutes.
What is the gelling time of the PRO+ system and ECO+ System when pouring a layer between 3mm and 2cm thickness?
The gelling time of the PRO+ System and ECO+ System when pouring a layer between 3mm and 2cm thick at 20°C is 360minutes.
What is the gelling time of the PRO+ system and ECO+ System when pouring a layer between 2cm and 5cm thickness?
The gelling time of the PRO+ System and ECO+ System when pouring a layer between 2cm and 5cm thick at 20°C is 240minutes.
How long is the drying, hardening, curing time of the PRO+ System and ECO+ System?
The PRO+ system and ECO+ System can be touched, and walked on (mechanical hardening) after about 48-72h at 20°C.
The PRO+ System and ECO+ System are completely chemically cured after 14 days at 20°C.
The PRO+ system and ECO+ System are sensitive to water and scratches until the full chemical curing of 14days.
If the temperature is below 20°C, the PRO+ System and ECO+ System need longer to cure.
What is the recommended working temperature of the PRO+ system and ECO+ System when working under the maximum pouring height of 5cm?
The recommended working temperature (substrate temperature, resin a-component temperature, hardener b-component temperature, room temperature) when using the PRO+ System and ECO+ System with a layer thickness of 5cm of less is 20°C.
What is the recommended working temperature of the PRO+ system and ECO+ System when pouring over 5cm but under 30cm thick on a small area of max. 10cmx10cm?
The recommended working temperature (substrate temperature, resin a-component temperature, hardener b-component temperature, room temperature) when using the PRO+ System and ECO+ System with a layer thickness of more than 5cm but less than 30cm on a small area of max 10cmx10cm is 15°C.
What is the maximum pouring height of the PRO+ system and ECO+ system when working at 15°C on a small area of max. 10cmx10cm?
The maximum pouring height of the PRO+ system and ECO+ system at 15°C when working on a area of maximum 10cmx10cm is 30cm. If the area is bigger than 10cmx10cm or the temperature higher than 15°C it is not possible to pour 30cm with the ECO+ and PRO+ System.
How long does the temperature have to be at right temperature when working with the ECO and PRO series?
The temperature should be constant day and night until full curing of the ECO and PRO series.
What is the pot life of the PRO MAX system and ECO MAX System?
The pot life of the PRO MAX system and ECO MAX System is 8hours for 10kg at 20°C. For larger quantities and higher temperatures, the pot life is shorter.
How long do I need to wait before I can apply another layer of PRO MAX system and ECO MAX System?
A 10cm layer of PRO MAX system and ECO MAX system need 72h to 96h at 20°C before you can apply a new layer of PRO MAX System and ECO MAX system. If the layer of PRO MAX and ECO MAX are less than 10cm or the temperature is less than 20°C, the time before you can apply a new layer of PRO MAX or ECO MAX System will be longer.
What is the gelling time of the PRO+ system and ECO + System when pouring a layer between 1.5mm and 3mm thickness?
The gelling time of the PRO MAX System and ECO MAX System when pouring a layer between 1.5mm and 3mm thick at 20°C is 480minutes.
What is the gelling time of the PRO+ system and ECO+ System when pouring a layer between 3mm and 5cm thickness?
The gelling time of the PRO MAX System and ECO MAX System when pouring a layer between 3mm and 5cm thick at 20°C is 480minutes.
What is the gelling time of the PRO+ system and ECO+ System when pouring a layer between 5cm and 10cm thickness?
The gelling time of the PRO MAX System and ECO MAX System when pouring a layer between 5cm and 10cm thick at 20°C is 360minutes.
How long is the drying, hardening, curing time of the PRO MAX System and ECO MAX System?
The PRO MAX system and ECO MAX System can be touched, and walked on (mechanical hardening) after about 72-96h at 20°C.
The PRO MAX System and ECO MAX System are completely chemically cured after 14 days at 20°C.
The PRO MAX system and ECO MAX System are sensitive to water and scratches until the full chemical curing of 14days.
If the temperature is below 20°C, the PRO MAX System and ECO MAX System need longer to cure.
What is the recommended working temperature of the PRO MAX system and ECO MAX System when working under the maximum pouring height of 10cm?
The recommended working temperature (substrate temperature, resin a-component temperature, hardener b-component temperature, room temperature) when using the PRO MAX System and ECO MAX System with a layer thickness of 10cm of less is 20°C.
What is the recommended working temperature of the PRO MAX system and ECO MAX System when pouring over 10cm but under 50cm thick on a small area of max. 10cmx10cm?
The recommended working temperature (substrate temperature, resin a-component temperature, hardener b-component temperature, room temperature) when using the PRO MAX System and ECO MAX System with a layer thickness of more than 10cm but less than 50cm on a small area of max 10cmx10cm is 15°C.
What is the maximum pouring height of the PRO MAX system and ECO MAX system when working at 15°C on a small area of max. 10cmx10cm?
The maximum pouring height of the PRO MAX system and ECO MAX system at 15°C when working on an area of maximum 10cmx10cm is 50cm. If the area is bigger than 10cmx10cm or the temperature higher than 15°C it is not possible to pour 50cm with the ECO MAX and PRO MAX system.
Can I use alcohol ink for a river table? Can I use alcohol ink with ECO+, PRO+, ECO MAX and PRO MAX System?
Alcohol ink can only be used when the layer thickness of maximum 1.5cm with the ECO and PRO Series. We recommend using the alcohol ink only in the ECO system or PRO system.
I want to use transparent or semi-transparent drop-in dyes in my ECO and PRO series but my layer is more than 1cm?
If you want to use the drop-in dyes in a thick layer, we recommend adding the drop-in dye slowly into the ECO and PRO series, the thicker the layer, the less amount of drop-in dye you require. The drop-in dyes specially the black and grey drop-ins look very dark on thicker layers.
Can I use pigment and dyes from another company into your ECO and PRO series?
It is possible to add epoxy dyes and pigment from another company into our ECO and PRO series. If you add pigments are dyes from another company into our ECO and PRO series, you need to make sure the dyes aren’t water-based and we recommend testing them in a small quantity of the ECO or PRO serie as the colour can change after curing. It is better to use our dyes and pigments with our ECO and PRO series as all our pigments and dyes were tested to make sure they remain the same colour after curing.
How do you use the alcohol ink in epoxy resin ECO and PRO series?
To achieve an alcohol ink effect, you need to combine a colour with the alcohol ink selenit white. Add the coloured alcohol ink of your choice to the still liquid the resin-hardener mixture ECO System of PRO System and then add the alcohol ink SELENIT WHITE. The alcohol inks will react with each other creating a unique pattern. The more selenit white ink drops you add to the coloured ink drop, the more pronounced and deeper the effect will be.The more selenit white drops you put on the coloured alcohol ink drop, the deeper the alcohol ink sink into the resin ECO system or PRO System and the stronger the Alcohol Ink effect is.
Are the drop-in dyes and alcohol inks the same thing?
No, the transparent drop-in and the alcohol inks aren’t the same thing. The transparent drop-ins give a uniform transparent colour to all the resins for the ECO and PRO series. The alcohol inks do not give a uniform colour to the ECO system and PRO system, the alcohol ink allows you to achieve a pattern called the petri dish effect.
Can I put more than 1.5% pigment into the resin-hardener mixture of the ECO and PRO series?
You can add more powder pigment into the resin-hardener mixture of the ECO and PRO series, but it is not necessary. There is no advantages to add more than 1.5% powder pigment into the resin from the ECO and PRO series, except for the glow-in-the-dark where adding more than 1,5% can make it glow more in the ECO and PRO series.
How long do I need to mix my epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series?
We recommend mixing the epoxy resin for the ECO and PRO series until the mixture is streak-free and homogenous. Make sure to mix the edges and the bottom of your mixing jug where you have the ECO and PRO series. The ECO and PRO series hardener and resin have different density, and the component sometimes sink to the bottom of the mixing jug. Once your ECO and PRO series mixture of streak-free pour the mixture of the ECO and PRO series in a new mixing jug and mix again.
Can I put more ep colour paste of liquid drop dye into the ECO and PRO series?
No, never put more liquid drop-in dye or ep colour paste than recommended into the resin-hardener mixture of the ECO and PRO series, it can lead to the resin not curing.
How can I coat the edges of my countertop, table with the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO Series?
To coat the edges of a table or countertop with our epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series, start by putting masking tape under the edge to catch any resin drips. We recommend keeping a bit of epoxy resin and hardener mixture of your ECO and PRO series in a mixing cup and letting it slowly thicken. Watch your epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series closely, as the epoxy can overheat in the mixing cup. Once the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series has reached a gel-like texture (like honey). Apply the gel-like resin-hardener mixture of the ECO and PRO series on your edge. Let the edge thicken, remove the masking tape from under the edge before the drips solidify completely.
Where can I trash my leftover ECO and PRO series?
Cured epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series is not dangerous and can be trashed with other plastic or at your local recycling centre. For more information on how to dispose of cured epoxy resin, we recommend that you check your local regulations. We recommend mixing unmix ECO and PRO series and letting it cure before disposing of it. Never pour the components of the ECO and PRO series down the drain or in the rainwater. The ECO and PRO series container can be disposed of at your local recycling centre.
Which mask, glove, protection do I need to use ECO and PRO series?
A mask FFP2 is sufficient while working with our ECO and PRO series, we recommend wearing nitrile gloves while working with our ECO and PRO series. We do not recommend wearing latex gloves while working with ECO and PRO series, the epoxy can go through the latex, make sure to wear nitrile gloves while working with the ECO and PRO series.
Can I use my old ECO and PRO series?
What happen if I use expire ECO and PRO series?
Using ECO and PRO series that have expire can lead to the resin not curing or not curing properly.
How to use the Nevada kit for countertop?
Instructions for Use Nevada Countertop Kit
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Nevada set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each colour. To achieve a Nevada result like on our site, plan: 18% PLATINUM SILVER, 18% SAPPHIRE BLUE, 18% BRONZE BROWN, 18% HAVANA BRONZE, 18% PEARL WHITE, 10% SIGNAL WHITE.
To acchieve the Nevada effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures.
Watch the instructional video and plan the colours you will use for each mixture of your Nevada set.
Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and colour each cup with one of the colours you want to use in this mixture of Nevada set. We recommend a colour proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 15g of pigment for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for colour pastes, e.g., 10g of colour paste for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colours of your Nevada set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colours of your Nevada set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colours of your Nevada set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
How to use the ammonit kit for countertop?
Instructions for Use Ammonit Countertop Kit
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Ammonit set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each colour. To achieve a Ammonit result like on our site, plan: 23,75% DARK BROWN, 23,75% BRONZE RED, 23,75% BRONZE BROWN, 23,75% PEARL WHITE, 5% SIGNAL WHITE.
To acchieve the Ammonit effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colours you will use for each mixture of your Ammonit set.
Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and colour each cup with one of the colours you want to use in this mixture of Ammonit set. We recommend a colour proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 15g of pigment for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for colour pastes, e.g., 10g of colour paste for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colours of your Ammonit set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colours of your Ammonit set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colours of your Ammonit set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
How to use the rust grey kit for countertop?
Instructions for Use Rust Grey Countertop Kit
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Rust grey set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each colour. To achieve a Rust grey result like on our site, plan: 25% SATIN GREY, 25% FLAME COPPER, 25% BRONZE BROWN, 25% PEARL WHITE.
To acchieve the Rust grey effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colours you will use for each mixture of your Rust grey set.
Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and colour each cup with one of the colours you want to use in this mixture of Rust grey set. We recommend a colour proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 15g of pigment for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for colour pastes, e.g., 10g of colour paste for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colours of your Rust grey set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colours of your Rust grey set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colours of your Rust grey set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
How to use the moon kit for countertop?
Instructions for Use Moon Countertop Kit
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Moon set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each colour. To achieve a Moon result like on our site, plan: 30% SATIN GREY, 30% PLATINUM SILVER, 30% PEARL WHITE, 10% SIGNAL WHITE.
To acchieve the Moon effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colours you will use for each mixture of your Moon set.
Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and colour each cup with one of the colours you want to use in this mixture of Moon set. We recommend a colour proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 15g of pigment for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for colour pastes, e.g., 10g of colour paste for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colours of your Moon set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colours of your Moon set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colours of your Moon set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
How to use the spice brown kit for countertop?
Instructions for Use Spice Brown Countertop Kit
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Spice brown set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each colour. To achieve a Spice brown result like on our site, plan: 30% BRONZE BROWN, 30% HAVANA BRONZE, 30% PEARL WHITE, 10% JET BLACK.
To acchieve the Spice brown effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colours you will use for each mixture of your Spice brown set.
Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and colour each cup with one of the colours you want to use in this mixture of Spice brown set. We recommend a colour proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 15g of pigment for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for colour pastes, e.g., 10g of colour paste for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colours of your Spice brown set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colours of your Spice brown set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colours of your Spice brown set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
How to use the onyx kit for countertop?
Instructions for Use Onyx Countertop Kit
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Onyx set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each colour. To achieve a Onyx result like on our site, plan: 45% INTENSE ANTHRACITE, 45% PEARL WHITE, 5% JET BLACK, 5% SIGNAL WHITE.
To acchieve the Onyx effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colours you will use for each mixture of your Onyx set.
Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and colour each cup with one of the colours you want to use in this mixture of Onyx set. We recommend a colour proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 15g of pigment for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for colour pastes, e.g., 10g of colour paste for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colours of your Onyx set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colours of your Onyx set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colours of your Onyx set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
How to use the granit kit for countertop?
Instructions for Use Granit Countertop Kit
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Granit set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each colour. To achieve a Granit result like on our site, plan: 45% PLATINUM SILVER, 45% PEARL WHITE, 5% JET BLACK, 5% SIGNAL WHITE.
To acchieve the Granit effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colours you will use for each mixture of your Granit set.
Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and colour each cup with one of the colours you want to use in this mixture of Granit set. We recommend a colour proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 15g of pigment for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for colour pastes, e.g., 10g of colour paste for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colours of your Granit set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colours of your Granit set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colours of your Granit set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
How to use the rust black kit for countertop?
Instructions for Use Rust Black Countertop Kit
Start with the Primer 1K
We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 20°C when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO resin.
Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System
Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Rust black set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each colour. To achieve a Rust black result like on our site, plan: 45% BRONZE BROWN, 45% PEARL WHITE, 10% JET BLACK.
To acchieve the Rust black effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colours you will use for each mixture of your Rust black set.
Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 by weight (e.g., 1kg A + 0,5kg B).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and colour each cup with one of the colours you want to use in this mixture of Rust black set. We recommend a colour proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 15g of pigment for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for colour pastes, e.g., 10g of colour paste for 1kg of resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colours of your Rust black set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colours of your Rust black set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colours of your Rust black set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 20°C) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.
Can I apply the ECO resin epoxy flooring set to prevent water rising by capillarity?
No, our epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series can’t be used on a floor having water rising by capillarity. You must solve the issue causing the water to raise before applying our ECO and PRO series.
Can I apply your paint on top of your epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series?
Yes, you can paint on our epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series, we recommend waiting until full chemical curing before painting and sanding the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series before painting on it.
What paint or resin can I use over vinyl floor? What paint or resin can I use over vinyl sticker floors?
To paint a vinyl floor, you can use our tile paint 2k. Please note that painting vinyl with tile paint 2k will only give a new colour and not hide any imperfections.
You can use our ECO system for floors on a vinyl floor.
Are UV resin and resin resistant to UV the same thing?
No, UV resins are resins curing under a UV lamp. EPODEX doesn’t have UV resin.
Resin resistant to UV are resin that have UV additive to protect against yellowing.
Can you apply epoxy resin ECO flooring set on tiled floor?
Yes, you can apply epoxy resin ECO flooring set to tiled floors, but it is recommended to first level the grout and then use our ECO flooring set. If you wish to only paint the tiled floor with resin, we recommend using our tile paint 2k.
Do you have an epoxy flooring with a white base and highlight?
Do you have an epoxy countertop set with white base and highlight?
Do you have a white epoxy floor with marble black?
We do not have a white based epoxy resin ECO flooring/countertop with highlight. We do not recommend a white based epoxy resin ECO flooring/counter as the resin yellows.
How many minutes do you need to mix epoxy resin?
We recommend mixing the epoxy resin until the mixture if free of streak. There is no specific time to mix the resin, as it depends on the mixing speed and the quantity being mixed. Just sure that the epoxy resin mixture A and B is free of streaks, pour it in another mixing cup and mix again before use.
Do you have a BPA-free certificate for your epoxy?
We don’t have a certificate as we are only selling the products in their liquid state the epoxy is free of BPA after proper chemical curing.
Do you have high viscosity epoxy resin?
Our epoxy resins from the ECO and PRO range are self-levelling low viscosity resins. We do not have epoxy resin with high viscosity; it is possible to let the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series thicken before using but it is important to closely monitor the epoxy resin to make sure it doesn’t overheat.
Can I use bonding primer under my epoxy resin set on tiles?
We do not recommend applying the bonding primer under the epoxy resin set. To achieve a levelled finish on tiles with epoxy resin, we recommend planning more epoxy resin to fill in the tiles joint or to do a self-levelling compound over the tiles before applying our epoxy resin set.
I prepared too much epoxy resin. How long can I store the mixture of epoxy resin and hardener?
You need to use the mixed epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO Series immediately. Once mixed, the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series cannot be stored.
Can I use your ECO System to seal or protect the tank of my vehicle? Is the epoxy resin ECO fuel-resistant?
Yes, you can use the ECO System to seal or protect your vehicle’s tank.
The ECO system is resistant to fuels once it is fully chemically cured (after 7 days at 20 °C).
What is the thickness of the epoxy on your epoxy resin Flooring ECO set?
The layer thickness of the epoxy resin flooring ECO set is 1.5mm.
What is the right product to protect a laminated worktop?
To protect a laminated worktop, countertop or table, we recommend our epoxy resin for countertop set.
Do you have an epoxy resin flooring set with a thickness of 4mm?
No, we only have an epoxy resin set with a thickness of 1.5mm. If you wish to apply more than 1.5mm epoxy resin on your floor, we recommend that you buy the ECO System individually.
Can I pour an epoxy resin floor ECO system 4mm thickness at once?
When pouring an epoxy resin floor with our 1K Primer as a primer, it is possible to pour up to 1cm thickness at once. When pouring an epoxy floor WITHOUT our 1K Primer as a primer, we recommend pouring your epoxy floor in 2 layers. The first layer of an epoxy flooring without 1k primer, should be about 0.5-1mm thick to seal the floor. Let the first layer of the epoxy flooring cure before applying the 2nd layer with the rest of the epoxy.
Do you see the different layers of epoxy resin on the floor?
You’ll not see the different layers of epoxy resin on the floor.
My resin says 1cm but my hardener says something else, how thick can I pour?
The maximal layer thickness is determined by the hardener; you can pour the thickness written on your hardener.
What is the right product for repairing rainwater and drinking water tanks?
To repair water tanks, you can use our epoxy resin system for laminating – ECO System. If the water tank has a hole, we recommend reinforcing it with fibreglass and our ECO System.
Can I use your epoxy resin ECO Flooring set to pour more than 1.5mm thick?
No, we do not recommend using our epoxy resin ECO flooring set to pour more than 1.5mm. To pour a floor with epoxy resin ECO with a thickness of more than 1.5mm, we recommend buying the epoxy and primer individually.
Why can’t I use the ECO flooring set for thickness of more than 1.5mm?
You can’t use the ECO flooring set to pour more than 1.5mm thickness because when selecting a bigger quantity, you will end up with too much primer and not enough epoxy resin ECO.
Can I use the ECO Flooring set to pour less than 1.5mm thickness?
We do not recommend pouring less than 1.5mm thickness with our ECO flooring set, as it can cause curing problems.
Can I use your epoxy resin ECO countertop set to pour more than 1.5mm thick?
No, we do not recommend using our epoxy resin ECO countertop set to pour more than 1.5mm. To pour a countertop with epoxy resin ECO with a thickness of more than 1.5mm, we recommend buying epoxy and primer individually.
Why can’t I use the ECO countertop set for thickness of more than 1.5mm?
You can’t use the ECO countertop set to pour more than 1.5mm thickness because when selecting a bigger quantity, you will end up with too much primer and not enough epoxy resin ECO.
Can I use the ECO countertop set to pour less than 1.5mm thickness?
We do not recommend pouring less than 1.5mm thickness with our ECO countertop set, as it can cause curing problems.
How long is an epoxy resin floor or countertop good?
The epoxy resin is made to last. The epoxy resin can have superficial scratches which can be polished away easily.
Do you have a matte epoxy resin?
No, we do not have a matte epoxy resin. It is possible to sand the epoxy resin without polishing to achieve a matte finish or apply a matte polyurethane topcoat.
Can I put the epoxy flooring set ECO on tiles?
Yes, you can put the epoxy resin flooring set ECO on tiles. Please note that we do recommend levelling the tiles before applying the epoxy resin flooring set ECO or planning more epoxy resin ECO to fill out the grout between the tiles.
Do you have a UV resin?
We do not have any resin drying under UV lamp no. Our epoxy resin are curing be chemical reaction between the resin and hardener.
Will your epoxy resin cure faster under UV lamp?
No, our epoxy resin will not cure faster with a UV lamp.
Can I apply epoxy resin on furniture?
Yes, you can apply epoxy resin on furniture but please note that it is very difficult to achieve the vertical part with our epoxy resin.
Can I add micro glass beads into the epoxy resin to achieve a non-slip finish?
To achieve a non-slip finish, we recommend either applying a polyurethane topcoat with 1% micro glass beads or sprinkling micro glass beads on top of the still liquid epoxy resin flooring ECO.
Can I put the epoxy flooring set ECO on tiles?
Yes, you can put the epoxy resin flooring set ECO on tiles. Please note that we do recommend levelling the tiles before applying the epoxy resin flooring set ECO or planning more epoxy resin ECO to fill out the grout between the tiles.
Do you have a UV resin?
We do not have any resin drying under UV lamp no. Our epoxy resins are curing be chemical reaction between the resin and hardener.
Will your epoxy resin cure faster under UV lamp?
No, our epoxy resin will not cure faster with a UV lamp.
Do you have a glossy topcoat to apply on epoxy resin?
Yes, our 2K PU Topcoat in glossy can be applied to epoxy resin to give it a glossy finish.
I don’t want to polish my sanded epoxy resin, do you have a product I can put on top?
Yes, you can apply our 2K PU Topcoat on top of your sanded epoxy resin to give it back its glossy finish without polishing.
Can I apply epoxy resin on glass?
Yes, it is possible to apply the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series on glass. To apply epoxy resin on glass, the glass must be sanded and clean. We recommend applying a silicone edge to prevent the epoxy resin from running down from the glass.
Can I apply epoxy resin in areas exposed to water and humidity? Can I apply epoxy in my sauna? Can I use epoxy in my bathroom?
Yes, after complete chemical curing epoxy resin is resistant to water and humidity changes.
What are the white lumps inside my epoxy resin?
Due to colder temperatures during storage or transport, the A component (epoxy resin) may crystallise. This has the effect of a cloudy, milky appearance. White residues may also appear on the rim or bottom of the container.
No need to worry! You can easily reverse the crystallisation. We recommend that you check in advance whether crystallisation has occurred. To do this, pour some resin into a mixing cup. If you notice traces of crystallisation, please place the container in a boiling water bath. A few minutes are sufficient to reverse the crystallisation. If this does not happen after a few minutes, extend the time in the water bath, and increase the temperature. Alternatively, you can place the containers on a heater and shake them repeatedly in between. Then let the product cool down to room temperature. Then the material can be processed as usual.
What are the white streaks on my epoxy resin?
The white streaks on epoxy resin are carbamates that form when moisture encounters uncured material. You can easily sand the carbamate down and then polish the resin back up.
To bring your sanded epoxy to a high gloss, use our sandpaper.
Start with a grit of P100 and gradually sand up to a P3,000 grit. If you wish, you can also sand up to a P10,000 grit until you have achieved the desired effect. Finally, polish your surface with EPODEX Resin Polish.
Which material is incompatible with epoxy resin?
The epoxy resin adheres to almost all surfaces and materials. Epoxy resin doesn’t stick to silicone and polypropylene. We recommend sanding (roughening) smooth surfaces before applying epoxy resin to ensure a good adhesion.
Is your epoxy BPA and VOC free?
The ECO and PRO series are BPA-free, but only the PRO serie is VOC-free.
Which mixing containers are suitable for epoxy resin?
Silicone or polypropylene mixing containers are best when mixing epoxy resin because they can be reused after the residue has been cured. The material does not bond with the epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO Series or the 2K paints, so you can squeeze out the residues after curing.
Is epoxy resin resistant to chemicals, acids, petrol, oil, etc.?
Our epoxy resins are resistant to almost all chemicals, petrol and oil. However, due to a large number of chemicals, we recommend testing the resistance selectively in advance. Various acids can dissolve the surface. We recommend a test in advance.
Is your epoxy resin UV-resistant or UV-stabilised?
No epoxy resin is 100% UV resistant. However, by adding UV stabilisers it is possible to obtain a very crystal-clear resin. Compared to the ECO system, our PRO systems offer the highest possible UV protection, which largely prevents yellowing. Nevertheless, it must be considered that no epoxy resin is completely UV-resistant, and yellowing might always occur.
How can I prevent epoxy from yellowing?
It is not possible to prevent epoxy resin from yellowing. We recommend using a colourants to colour the epoxy resin and hide the yellowing.
Will a PU topcoat prevent my epoxy resin from yellowing?
No, applying the 2K PU Topcoat will not prevent the epoxy resin from yellowing. Applying the 2K PU Topcoat will slow down, minimize yellowing but not stop it completely.
How can I increase the scratch resistance of my epoxy resin?
You can increase the scratch resistance of your epoxy resin by applying our 2K PU Topcoat.
How can I increase the heat resistance of my epoxy resin?
You can increase the heat resistance of your epoxy resin by applying our 2K PU Topcoat.
What paint can I use to paint over epoxy resin?
You can use our 2K PU paint to paint over epoxy resin. It is also possible to use acrylic-based paint to paint over epoxy resin.
How to make epoxy mortar or epoxy filler?
Our 2K Levelling Compound can be used as an epoxy mortar. Epoxy putty is a ready-made putty. We do not sell epoxy putty.
Is your epoxy pre-coloured?
Our ECO and PRO series aren’t pre-coloured, giving you the opportunity to customise your epoxy to your need.
How can I remove bubbles in my epoxy resin?
If the ECO and PRO series are not yet cured, the addition of heat will cause the bubbles to rise. You can therefore use a hairdryer, for example, and apply heat to your epoxy resin project at a slight distance. If the resin has already cured, the bubbles can no longer be removed.
Can I put epoxy resin in the dishwasher?
Yes, if the epoxy resin has been made heat resistant with a suitable product.
Can I cast fresh flowers inside the epoxy resin?
No, the flowers must be dried and sealed, for example with a layer of EPODEX ECO epoxy resin. To preserve the colour, you can soak the flowers in silicate salts.
How can I prevent the metallic pigment from sinking inside my epoxy resin?
When creating patterns, it is important to work at the gelling point of the epoxy resin. This is reached when the consistency of the epoxy resin is a solid gel.
What can be the reason why my epoxy resin doesn’t cure?
The following problem can cause the epoxy resin to not cure:
• Not stirred without streaks
• Mixed by volume and not by kg
• Not repotted
• Scraped from the edge or bottom
• Ambient temperature too low
• Wrong mixing ratio
• Not weighed, but simply tipped out A and added B - due to different viscosities, not all come out of the container
• Too much pigment
• Foreign pigment
Why do some parts of my epoxy resin remain sticky?
If the mixing ratio is followed exactly and resin and hardener are mixed evenly and then repotted, the epoxy resin will cure fully. The following problem can cause partial curing problem:
• Not stirred without streaks - means unconnected poured material.
• Scraped from the rim of the cup
• Not repotted
The most frequently asked questions about Exposed Concrete
What is the exposed concrete set?
The exposed concrete set is a set including either microcement or concrete effect and our exposed concrete film to achieve a raw concrete look.
What is the exposed concrete finish?
Exposed concrete finish is a raw concrete imitation.
Can I do the exposed concrete finish on floor?
If you wish to achieve an exposed concrete finish on a floor, we recommend buying our microcement flooring set and our exposed concrete film separately. Please note that to achieve the exposed concrete finish on a floor, we recommend applying 2 layers of microcement starting with large-grained.
Can I buy the exposed concrete film individually?
Yes, it is possible to buy the exposed concrete film individually. The exposed concrete film is available in a pack of 5.
How big are the exposed concrete film?
Each exposed concrete film is 140cmx100cm, each exposed concrete film set includes 5 films.
Can I reuse the exposed concrete film?
No, we do not recommend reusing the exposed concrete film, as particles will stick to the film upon removing it.
Is there a right side on the exposed concrete film?
The exposed concrete film can be used once on either side.
Why can’t I use both sides of the exposed concrete film?
We do not recommend using both side of the exposed concrete film as the film is not made for a double-side application.
Can I wait longer before removing the exposed concrete film?
Yes, it is only important to wait until the microcement/concrete effect is dry before removing the film. There is no limit of time to remove the exposed concrete film.
What is the difference between option 1 and option 2 of the exposed concrete set?
Option 1 includes microcement and the exposed concrete film and option 2 includes concrete effect and the exposed concrete film.
How can I make the exposed concrete waterproof?
It is possible to achieve a waterproof finish on the exposed concrete look by applying our polyurethane topcoat.
How many layers of microcement do I need to achieve the exposed concrete look on walls?
One layer of microcement is sufficient to achieve the exposed concrete look. Our exposed concrete set with microcement includes enough microcement for one layer. Please note that the single layer of microcement applied to achieve the exposed concrete look is thicker than the regular microcement.
How many layers of concrete effect do I need to achieve an exposed concrete look on walls?
One layer of concrete effect is sufficient to achieve the exposed concrete look. Our exposed concrete set with concrete effect includes enough concrete effect for one layer.
Can I use microcement fine-grained instead of microcement medium-grained to achieve the exposed concrete look?
If you wish to achieve the exposed concrete finish with a microcement fine-grained, we recommend purchasing the microcement set for walls with the fine-grained finish and the exposed concrete film separately. Please note that to achieve the exposed concrete finish on walls with the microcement fine-grained, we recommend applying 2 layers of microcement starting with the medium-grained size.
Can I use microcement large-grained instead of microcement medium-grained to achieve the exposed concrete look on walls?
Yes, it is possible to achieve the exposed concrete look on walls with 1 layer of large-grained microcement, we recommend purchasing the components individually. If you need help to put together the exposed concrete finish for walls in a large-grained, please open a ticket giving the desired colours and area to cover.
How to apply exposed concrete set with microcement?
Primer before applying microcement to achieve the exposed concrete finish
1. The substrate must be stable, dry, and free of dirt, separating agents, and coarse unevenness before applying the microcement and exposed concrete film.
2. Sand off any unevenness.
3. Apply Primer before applying microcement and exposed concrete film:
• For wall tiles, we recommend priming the tiles and joints with our special primer & putty and filling the joints with it before applying microcement and exposed concrete film.
• For walls without tiles, we recommend using our Deep Primer before applying microcement and exposed concrete film.
All primers can be found under the Accessories button on the product page for exposed concrete finish with microcement.
4. Allow the primer to dry before applying the microcement and exposed concrete film.
Main Coating microcement and exposed concrete film
1. Mix the Microcement A-component in medium grain with the LIQUID B in a 5:1 mixing ratio, e.g. 7kg of Microcement Powder (A) with 1.4kg of acrylic resin LIQUID B.
2. Add the supplied WB pigment to colour the microcement. Use approximately 2% WB pigment, e.g. 2x 100g bottles for 7kg of Microcement powder medium-grained and 1.4kg of acrylic resin.
3. Spread the microcement onto the wall with a trowel.
4. Moisten one side of the exposed concrete film with a water spray bottle and apply the film to the wall freshly coated with microcement. Press the exposed concrete film firmly with a trowel.
5. Allow the microcment with the exposed concrete film on top to dry. Drying time of microcement with exposed concrete film at 20°C: 24 hours.
6. Once dry, peel off the exposed concrete film.
Sealant for the exposed concrete finish with microcement
Note: For damp rooms, surfaces in direct contact with water and heavily used surfaces (high mechanical stress, cleaning with aggressive cleaning agents, etc.), we recommend sealing the microcement exposed concrete finish with EPODEX polyurethane resin (PU resin).
1. Mix PU resin and hardener in the specified mixing ratio and pour into a paint tray.
2. Apply the polyurethane resin thinly with a foam roller in a crosswise motion and allow to harden. We recommend two coats.
How to apply exposed concrete set with concrete effect?
Main Coating of exposed concrete look with concrete effect
1. The substrate must be stable, dry, and free from dirt, separating agents, and unevenness. The Concrete Effect can also be applied directly to tiles without the need for an additional primer. Please note that to fill tile grout with concrete effect, extra product might be required.
2. Mix CONCRETE EFFECT powder with water in a 5:2 weight ratio, e.g. 1kg of powder with 400ml of water.
3. Add the supplied WB pigment to colour the concrete effect. Use approximately 2% WB pigment, e.g. 2x 100g bottles for 5kg of EFFECT powder and 2 litres of water.
4. Apply the concrete effect with a trowel. Working time of the concrete effect: approximately 30 minutes. Consumption Volume of the concrete effect: approx. 1kg/m² per 1mm layer thickness.
5. Moisten one side of the exposed concrete film with a water spray bottle and apply the film to the wall freshly coated with concrete effect. Press the exposed concrete film firmly with a trowel.
6. Allow the concrete effect with exposed concrete film to dry. Drying time of the concrete effect with exposed concrete film at 20°C: 24 hours.
7. Once dry, peel off the exposed concrete film.
Sealant for the exposed concrete finish with concrete effect
Note: For damp rooms, surfaces in direct contact with water and heavily used surfaces (high mechanical stress, cleaning with aggressive cleaning agents, etc.), we recommend sealing the concrete effect exposed concrete look with EPODEX polyurethane resin (PU resin).
1. Mix PU resin and hardener in the specified mixing ratio and pour into a paint tray.
2. Apply the polyurethane resin thinly with a foam roller in a crosswise motion and allow to harden. We recommend two coats.
How to apply exposed concrete set with concrete effect?
Main Coating of exposed concrete look with concrete effect
1. The substrate must be stable, dry, and free from dirt, separating agents, and unevenness. The Concrete Effect can also be applied directly to tiles without the need for an additional primer. Please note that to fill tile grout with concrete effect, extra product might be required.
2. Mix CONCRETE EFFECT powder with water in a 5:2 weight ratio, e.g. 1kg of powder with 400ml of water.
3. Add the supplied WB pigment to colour the concrete effect. Use approximately 2% WB pigment, e.g. 2x 100g bottles for 5kg of EFFECT powder and 2 litres of water.
4. Apply the concrete effect with a trowel. Working time of the concrete effect: approximately 30 minutes. Consumption Volume of the concrete effect: approx. 1kg/m² per 1mm layer thickness.
5. Moisten one side of the exposed concrete film with a water spray bottle and apply the film to the wall freshly coated with concrete effect. Press the exposed concrete film firmly with a trowel.
6. Allow the concrete effect with exposed concrete film to dry. Drying time of the concrete effect with exposed concrete film at 20°C: 24 hours.
7. Once dry, peel off the exposed concrete film.
Sealant for the exposed concrete finish with concrete effect
Note: For damp rooms, surfaces in direct contact with water and heavily used surfaces (high mechanical stress, cleaning with aggressive cleaning agents, etc.), we recommend sealing the concrete effect exposed concrete look with EPODEX polyurethane resin (PU resin).
1. Mix PU resin and hardener in the specified mixing ratio and pour into a paint tray.
2. Apply the polyurethane resin thinly with a foam roller in a crosswise motion and allow to harden. We recommend two coats.
Can I leave a bigger gap between the exposed concrete films?
We do not recommend leaving a big gap between the exposed concrete film as it will not result in the traditional exposed concrete look.
Can I overlap the exposed concrete films?
We do not recommend overlapping the exposed concrete films as it will not create the sharp line between the films that is typical of the exposed concrete look. We recommend placing the exposed concrete films next to each other without leaving a big gap.
What is the smallest size available for the exposed concrete set with microcement?
What is the smallest size available for the exposed concrete set with concrete effect?
The smallest exposed concrete set available is for 5m². The exposed concrete set with concrete effect in the size 5m² includes 5kg concrete effect, 2x100g WB Pigment, and 5 exposed concrete films. The exposed concrete film with microcement in the size 5m² includes 7kg microcement medium-grained, 2kg liquid B, 2x100g WB Pigment, and 5 exposed concrete films.
Can I apply the exposed concrete set with concrete effect on floors?
No concrete effect isn’t suitable for floors; we do not recommend the exposed concrete set with concrete effect on floors.
Can I cut the exposed concrete film?
Yes, it is possible to cut the exposed concrete film with scissors or a cutter. We recommend measuring and cutting it before applying it to the coated wall.
How to apply the exposed concrete to a large area?
When applying the exposed concrete to a large area, we recommend working in sections as the concrete effect is quick setting.
The most frequently asked questions about Exterior Paint
Do you have EXTERIOR PAINT? Do you have façade paint? Do you have masonry paint?
Yes, our EXTERIOR PAINT is ideal as façade paint, masonry paint. Our EXTERIOR PAINT is suitable on all stable, mineral-based surfaces, including external plaster (MG PII, PIII), concrete, brick, aerated concrete, old coatings, and silicate paints.
How to apply the EXTERIOR PAINT?
1. Ensure the substrate is stable, clean, and free from any substances that may prevent proper adhesion of the EXTERIOR PAINT.
2. Add the supplied WB-Pigment colour activator in the specified amount to the EXTERIOR PAINT to bring out its full colour intensity (Note: Not included with the "Polar White" colour).
3. Mix the EXTERIOR PAINT thoroughly (for approx. 3min).
4. Apply the Coloured EXTERIOR PAINT to the façade. We recommend applying 2 coats of EXTERIOR PAINT for optimal results.
5. Leave the EXTERIOR PAINT to dry.
Do I need a foam roller or paint roller to apply the EXTERIOR PAINT?
We recommend using a paint roller to apply the EXTERIOR PAINT.
Can I apply the EXTERIOR PAINT with a brush?
Yes, you can apply EXTERIOR PAINT with a brush.
What is the consumption volume of the EXTERIOR PAINT?
The consumption volume of the EXTERIOR PAINT is approx. 200g/m² per coat.
Does the EXTERIOR PAINT have a strong smell?
No, the EXTERIOR PAINT has a low odour.
At what temperatures can I apply the EXTERIOR PAINT?
We recommend applying the EXTERIOR PAINT at temperature between min. +8°C and max. +25°C.
What is the optimal processing temperature of the EXTERIOR PAINT?
The optimal processing temperature of EXTERIOR PAINT is 20°C.
How much WB PIGMENT do I need to add into the EXTERIOR PAINT?
We recommend adding 400g WB PIGMENT to 12kg EXTERIOR PAINT Brilliant.
We recommend adding 400g WB PIGMENT to 12kg EXTERIOR PAINT Pastel.
We recommend adding 200g WB PIGMENT to 12kg EXTERIOR PAINT pastel+.
You don’t need to add WB PIGMENT into the EXTERIOR PAINT polar white as it is pre-tinted.
Which pigments are compatible with the EXTERIOR PAINT?
Only the WB PIGMENTs are compatible with the EXTERIOR PAINT.
In what sizes does the EXTERIOR PAINT come in?
The EXTERIOR PAINT comes in 12kg buckets.
How long does it take for the EXTERIOR PAINT to dry?
The EXTERIOR PAINT is touch-dry after 3-5h at 20°C and humidity level of 65%. EXTERIOR PAINT is completely dry after 3 days.
What type of paint is EXTERIOR PAINT?
EXTERIOR PAINT is a silicone resin based on pure acrylic copolymer.
Is the EXTERIOR PAINT glossy?
No, EXTERIOR PAINT has a matte finish.
What is the consistency of the EXTERIOR PAINT?
The EXTERIOR PAINT has a viscous consistency to ensure easy application without drips.
Can I dilute EXTERIOR PAINT?
EXTERIOR PAINT can be diluted with water.
What are the advantages of EXTERIOR PAINT from EPODEX?
EPODEX EXTERIOR PAINT protects against algae and fungal growth.
What is the water vapour diffusivity of EXTERIOR PAINT?
EPODEX EXTERIOR PAINT has a high water vapour diffusivity according to the norm DIN EN 1062-3.
Is EXTERIOR PAINT scratch resistant? Is EXTERIOR PAINT abrasion resistant?
Yes, EXTERIOR PAINT is scratch and abrasion resistant.
Is EXTERIOR PAINT open to diffusion?
Yes, EXTERIOR PAINT is open to diffusion.
Is EXTERIOR PAINT breathable?
Yes, EXTERIOR PAINT is breathable.
Is EXTERIOR PAINT colour fast? Do the colours of the EXTERIOR PAINT fade?
EXTERIOR PAINT is colour fast and the colours do not fade.
What is the colour of the un-tinted EXTERIOR PAINT?
Unpigmented EXTERIOR PAINT has a milky appearance, except Pastel and
Polar White which are pre-tinted in white
Is EXTERIOR PAINT UV-resistant?
Yes, EXTERIOR PAINT is UV-resistant.
Is EXTERIOR PAINT solvent-free?
Yes, EXTERIOR PAINT is solvent-free.
Yes, EXTERIOR PAINT is solvent-free.
No, EXTERIOR PAINT is not VOC-free. The VOC content of EXTERIOR PAINT does not exceed 40g/L.
Is EXTERIOR PAINT susceptible to abrasion marks, shiny spots and the writing effect?
No, EXTERIOR PAINT is not susceptible to abrasion marks, shiny spots and the writing effect.
Is EXTERIOR PAINT environmentally friendly?
Yes, EXTERIOR PAINT is environmentally friendly as it is durable and solvent-free.
What is the density of the EXTERIOR PAINT?
The density of the EXTERIOR PAINT is 1.5 g/cm³.
How can I clean the tools after using EXTERIOR PAINT?
When using EXTERIOR PAINT, you can clean the tools with water immediately after use.
How do you clean a surface painted with EXTERIOR PAINT?
Surfaces painted with EXTERIOR PAINT can be clean with high-pressure water jets set at max. temperature 60°C and pressure 60 bars.
How to store EXTERIOR PAINT?
Store EXTERIOR PAINT sealed in a cool but frost-free place. Keep EXTERIOR PAINT out of reach of children
What is the self-life of EXTERIOR PAINT?
The shelf-life of EXTERIOR PAINT before opening at the right storage condition is 12 months. The shelf-life of EXTERIOR PAINT after opening is 6 months.
What is the maximum storage temperature of EXTERIOR PAINT?
The maximum storage temperature of EXTERIOR PAINT is 25°C.
What is the minimum storage temperature of EXTERIOR PAINT?
The minimum storage temperature of EXTERIOR PAINT is 10°C.
How to mix EXTERIOR PAINT?
Stir the EXTERIOR PAINT thoroughly using the supplied stirrer with a cordless drill. Mix EXTERIOR PAINT at 450 rpm for approx. 3 minutes. For larger quantities of EXTERIOR PAINT, you may gradually increase the speed up to 1800 rpm, if needed.
How can I avoid colour variation between batches?
To ensure consistent colour, mix all paint buckets together in a large container before application. This helps prevent slight color variations between batches.
If you don’t have a large enough bucket, here's what you can do:
Alternate between buckets as you paint—for example, use paint from one bucket for a section, then switch to the next bucket, and so on. This blending technique helps minimise noticeable color differences on the wall.
The most frequently asked questions about General Inquiries
Do you have paint colour samples?
Unfortunately, we do not have any samples or colour cards available now, but we are working on introducing this option. We recommend ordering the smallest quantity of the right unpigmented base along with desired WB pigments to test the colours. Please note that opened WB pigments are excluded from the right of return.
Do you have stores/ physical store/ a place to go and buy directly?
Unfortunately, we currently do not have a showroom. However, you can get some advice and purchase our products at our headquarters in Krefeld, Germany.
If that suits you, we kindly ask you contact us per E-mail or phone beforehand.
Where do I find instructions for use?
The Instructions for use can be found on each product page. Scroll down to see the instructions for use. Additionally, we have a large number of YouTube videos and tutorials that visually explain how to use our products, how to prepare the substrate, and how to choose the right products.
How can I return the product?
You have the right to cancel this contract within fourteen days without giving any reason.
The cancellation period will expire 14 days from the day on which you acquire, or a third party other than the carrier and indicated by you acquires, physical possession of the goods.
To exercise the right to cancel, you must inform us via e-mail of your decision to cancel this contract by a clear statement (e.g. a letter sent by post, fax or e-mail). You may use the cancellation form (linked below), but it is not obligatory.
To meet the cancellation deadline, it is sufficient for you to send your communication concerning your exercise of the right to cancel before the cancellation period has expired. To view all the conditions for returns, return shipping costs, refund conditions, cancellation form, etc., please visit our right of withdrawal page.
Please note that we do not accept returns from traders and professionals as well as for opened products.
I want to return my order, who pays for the return costs? How much does it cost to return a package?
The customer bears the direct costs of returning the goods. The direct costs of returning goods which are unsuitable for a return shipment by post, due to their nature (goods delivered by transport agency), are estimated at around a maximum of 80 euros.
What happens if my package was/arrived damaged?
Please send us pictures of the damaged goods per E-mail. If possible, indicate exactly which components are damaged as well as your order number. A member of your team will make sure that the damaged products are replaced as soon as possible.
Where is my order?
To track your package and find out its current status, please first check the tracking link provided in the confirmation email with the details of your order.
If you have any additional questions or need clarification regarding the status of your package, please contact us via E-mail or phone.
Do you have trader’s price? Do professionals get a discount?
We do offer a 10% discount on all orders for traders. To have access to it, please send us a copy of your business registration per E-mail. Your team will send you a discount code to enter at checkout. The discount code will be valid 1 year and renewable afterwards.
Do you have coupons?
Can I have a discount?
At EPODEX, we are committed to offering fair and competitive prices year-round. For this reason, we do not offer promotional discounts, as our focus is on always maintaining consistently low prices for all customers.
Are you open in august?
Yes, we are open all year around.
Are you open around Christmas and new year? Are you open during the holidays?
We are a German-based company and are only closed on German bank holidays. We are open between Christmas and new year. Please note that delivery might take longer during that period.
Where are your product coming from?
Are you producing your product?
All our products are Made in Germany. We are a German-based company. We produce and distribute our own products.
I want to know how to mix EPODEX? I want to know how to apply EPODEX?
EPODEX is our brand and not a specific product. Each of our products have a different mixing ratio and application technic.
Do you sell to private persons?
Yes, we do sell to private customers as well a trader.
I don’t have a VAT number can I still order?
Yes, the VAT Number option at checkout is optional, leave it empty you don’t have a VAT number.
I didn’t enter my VAT number and now I paid taxes. What can I do?
Unfortunately, it is not possible for the customers to add your VAT number and remove taxes once an invoice has been generated. We kindly ask that you contact our support per E-mail.
Why did I pay taxes if I entered my VAT number?
We apologize for the inconvenience. Please send us an E-mail with your order and VAT numbers. Our team will investigate the issue as quickly as possible.
Are you available in stores?
No, we are an online and shop our products are only available via our website online.
Are you shipping on the weekends?
We aren’t shipping on the weekends and German bank holidays. Our warehouse is opened Monday to Friday.
What is same-day shipping?
Same-day Shipping means that your order will not have any preparation delays and will be packed a ndshipped as soon as we receive your payments. Our warehouse is opened Monday to Friday. Orders made on the weekend are being prepared and dispatched the following Monday. Orders made in the week after 1pm are being shipped on the next day. When ordering on a German Bank Holiday your order will be prepared and dispatched on the next working day.
Which carrier are you using?
Depending on the region you are in your order will be shipped with either FedEx (TNT), DPD or DHL.
Do I need to pay import charges when ordering to Switzerland, Norway or the UK?
Import charges may incur for deliveries in non-EU countries (Norway, Switzerland) except for the UK. All deliveries for the UK include all import charges, no extra fees are incurred at delivery.
Can I order VAT-free?
Yes, people or companies with a VAT-number enabling VAT-free shopping inside the EU can add their VAT-number at the checkout to get a VAT-free invoice. Please note that VAT-free invoices aren’t possible inside Germany as we are a German-based company.
Can I pay on delivery?
No, unfortunately it is not possible to pay on delivery.
Can I pay later?
Do you allow short-term late payments?
Can I receive the invoice and pay within a few days?
Can I delay my payment by a few days?
Do you offer a payment window after ordering?
We only ship orders after payment has been received. You can pay via PayPal and use their “Pay Later” service if available.
⚠️ We provide a formal quote with a 14-day payment term for public institutions such as police departments, hospitals, and other public authorities. If you are eligible and require this option, please contact us by email before placing your order.
I can’t log into my account. What should I do?
Did you try to reset your password? If this didn’t work, please contact our team via E-mail.
Do I need an account to order?
No, you do not need to create an account to order. You can order as a guess on our website.
I can’t create an account. What should I do?
Please contact our team per E-mail they will assist you as soon as possible.
What payment methods does EPODEX accept?
We offer several secure and convenient payment methods:
✅ Bank Transfer – You can transfer the total amount to our bank account. Your order will be shipped once the payment is received.
✅ Credit Card (MasterCard, Visa, American Express) – Payments are securely processed via Stripe, with no additional fees. Your card will be charged immediately upon order completion.
✅ PayPal – Fast and secure payment method. You’ll be redirected to PayPal at checkout to complete the payment, allowing for quicker order processing.
✅ Amazon Pay – Use your existing Amazon account to complete your purchase easily with your saved payment and delivery details.
✅ Klarna – Offers online banking payment options using PIN and TAN for a fast and secure transaction.
✅ iDEAL – Available for Dutch customers. You’ll be redirected to your bank’s online banking platform. Supported banks include ABN AMRO, ASN Bank, Friesland Bank, ING, Rabobank, SNS Bank, SNS Regio Bank, Van Lanschot Bankiers, and Triodos Bank.
✅ Przelewy24 – Available for Polish customers, supporting payments through 165+ Polish banks, as well as international credit cards and SMS-based payments.
Does EPODEX offer paying cash on delivery?
❌ No, we do not offer cash on delivery. All orders must be paid in advance before shipping.
How much does this cost?
Can you tell me the price?
What’s the cost of EPODEX?
The price depends on the quantity you need. Please visit the product page, select the amount you require, and the price will be displayed automatically.
Would you like help calculating how much product you need? Contact our team! They are here to assist.
Do you collaborate with others or offer partnerships?
Our marketing team reviews partnership and collaboration inquiries individually. We kindly ask that you send us an email with details about your project and your expectations for the collaboration.
Do you deliver to a pickup point or parcel shop?
It is not possible to enter a pickup point or a parcel shop directly on our website, however it is possible once the parcel is in transit to ask the carrier to relay the parcel to the nearest pickup point. The option to relay the parcel to a pickup point will be available on your tracking link.
Can I come to the address listed on your website?
It is only possible to come to our address in Krefeld, Germany. All our other offices are administrative offices, which aren’t open to the public.
The most frequently asked questions about Microcement & Concrete Effect
What is Microcement?
Microcement is a versatile design filler consisting of two components: Microcement (A) and Acrylic Resin (B – liquid). It can be applied to walls (tiled or not), facades, floors (tiled or not), doors, furniture, and various other surfaces such as concrete, metal, plastic, or wood. It is important to always prime the substrate before applying Microcement.
It is suitable for indoor use and outdoor areas. For outdoor spaces, floors, bathrooms, showers, or other wet areas with water contact, Microcement must be sealed with a Polyurethane topcoat (2K PU Topcoat) to ensure water resistance.
This makes Microcement an excellent choice for creating durable, stylish finishes on a wide range of surfaces.
What is the recommended processing temperature of Microcement?
What’s the best temperature to apply Microcement?
Can I use Microcement if it’s too cold or too hot?
What’s the temperature range for applying Microcement?
The processing temperature of Microcement should be between 10°C and 25°C, with an optimal temperature of 20°C.
What is the drying/hardening time of Microcement?
How long does Microcement take to dry?
When will the Microcement be ready to use?
How long before the Microcement fully hardens?
At 20°C, Microcement dries and achieves mechanical hardening in 8 hours, while chemical hardening is completed in 7 days.
What is the pot life of Microcement?
Microcement has no pot life. If the Microcement thickens just stir to reliquefy it.
How much Microcement do I need per layer?
For walls/ furniture coated with Microcement:
• The first layer Microcement (using medium grain) requires about 1.2 kg/m².
• The second layer Microcement (using fine or medium grain) will need 1 to 1.2 kg/m².
For floors:
• The first layer Microcement (using large grain) requires around 1.6 kg/m².
• The second layer Microcement (using large or medium grain) will need 1.2 kg/m².
• If you want an optional third layer Microcement (using fine grain), you’ll need 1 kg/m².
What container sizes are available for Microcement?
• Microcement Fine Grain: A: 5 kg / B: 2 kg
• Microcement Medium and Large Grain: A: 7 kg / B: 2 kg
What are the key properties/differences/uses of Microcement grains?
Microcement Fine Grain: Unpigmented, matte, ideal for the second layer on walls or the third layer on floors.
Microcement Medium Grain: Unpigmented, matte, perfect for the first layer on walls or the second layer on floors.
Microcement Large Grain: Unpigmented, matte, best for the first layer on floors.
What is the waiting time between coats for Microcement, and what should you do if you wait too long?
The waiting time between coats for Microcement is a minimum of 8 hours and a maximum of 24 hours at 20°C. If more than 24 hours pass after applying the first layer Microcement , you need to sand the surface and apply B liquid before applying the second coat Microcement . Apply the Microcement on the wet B liquid.
If you are working at more than 20°C, the drying time of the Microcement is quicker and applying the second layer after 24h might cause bubbles in the second layer. At high temperature we recommend to sand and apply a thin layer of liquid B when approaching 24h. When working at higher temperature, add more liquid B to your Microcement to help the Microcement to self-vent and not harden as quickly.
What is the mixing ratio by weight for A:B in Microcement?
The mixing ratio for Microcement by weight for the Microcement powder and liquid B in Microcement is as follows:
• Fine Grain Microcement: 100:35 (5kg Microcement Powder with 1.75kg Liquid B + WB pigment to dye the mixture)
• Medium Grain Microcement: 100:20 (7kg Microcement Powder with 1.4kg Liquid B + WB pigment to dye the mixture)
• Large Grain Microcement: 100:25 (7kg Microcement Powder with 1.75kg Liquid B + WB pigment to dye the mixture)
You can add between 2 and 10 % WB Pigment to Microcement. The Microcement sets are delivered with 2% WB Pigment which are the colours displayed on our website. For more intensive colours, you can add up to 10% WB pigment to your microcment, to do so, you will need to order extra WB pigment.
How is Microcement applied, and what precautions should be taken?
Microcement is applied by spreading it on a surface with a trowel. Important precautions:
• It is not dilutable Microcement with water—do not mix it with water.
• Avoid putting Microcement in contact with water contact within the first 24 hours after application, as it can cause stains and slow down the drying time of the Microcement.
• Heat sources or sunlight can cause the Microcement to have different colour and in some cases even crack in the Microcement and CONCRETE EFFECT 1k.
• Do not turn on your underfloor heating for at least 48h after the last layers of Microcement.
• It is important to always prime the substrate properly before applying Microcement.
Which pigments can I use with Microcement?
How to colour Microcement?
You can mix Microcement with 2% WB Pigment (Water-based pigment). For example, mix 2 x 100 g WB pigment are sufficient to colour 1x Bag of Microcement Poweder and the Appropriate amount of liquid B.
When can a PU topcoat be applied to Microcement?
A PU topcoat can be applied at least 48 hours after the last layer of Microcement has been applied.
Do you have Microcement colour samples?
Yes, we do! You can order Microcement Sample Plates (Dimensions: 10x10 cm) to help you choose the perfect colour for your project.
You can select up to 48 Microcement sample plates of your choice. These Microcement samples are ideal for seeing, touching, and experiencing the final look and feel of our Microcement.
You can find our Microcement sample plates in a Medium Grain-sized on our website.
Can I test Microcement before buying a full set?
Yes, you can! We offer a Microcement Sample Set that includes medium grain-sized Microcement and up to 10 custom colours of your choice. It’s perfect for testing and finding the right colour Microcement and texture for your project.
Can I buy only specific parts of the Microcement set, like the liquid B or Microcement powder?
Yes, you can! We offer the option to purchase individual components of the Microcement set. You can choose:
• The liquid part (B) separately.
• Microcement Powder (A) in all three sizes (fine, medium, and large).
This is ideal for projects where you only need to restock certain materials.
Do you sell equipment for working with Microcement or CONCRETE EFFECT?
Yes, we do! We offer a variety of equipment for working with Microcement, including rollers, trowels, brushes, mixing buckets, and complete sets tailored to your needs—whether you're applying Microcement on floors or walls.
What is the difference between Microcement and CONCRETE EFFECT?
The Difference Between Microcement and CONCRETE EFFECT
• Microcement is applied in 2 layers and mixed with Liquid B, an acrylic-based binder. It can be applied to walls, floors, ceilings, and furniture. It is available in 3 grain-sizes. The layer superposition allows you to achieve a unique textured finish which can’t be obtain with another product. It is highly resistant to tear and wear and scratches. Microcement With a PU sealant it can be applied to wet room, such as bathroom and outdoor spaces.
• CONCRETE EFFECT is a cost-effective alternative to Microcement that can only be applied to surface not subjected to heavy tear and wear, such as walls. The CONCRETE EFFECT comes in only 1 grain-size which falls somewhere between medium and fine. It is applied in 1 layer. Unlike Microcement CONCRETE EFFECT can be sanded easily making it ideal for temporary decorative projects. You can also add a PU topcoat to CONCRETE EFFECT.
Can I apply Microcement on top of underfloor heating?
Is Microcement compatible with underfloor heating?
It is important to avoid using underfloor heating for at least 48 hours after applying the last layer of Microcement. Additionally, underfloor heating should not be used during the application or drying process of the Microcement. This is crucial to ensure proper curing and adhesion of the Microcement layers, as interference from heat could affect the quality and durability of the finish.
What is the mixing ratio of the PUTTY PRIMER?
The mixing ratio of our PUTTY PRIMER is as follow: 5 kg of primer and 2 litres of water.
What is the mixing ratio of the 2K LEVELLING COMPOUND for floors?
The mixing ratio for the 2K LEVELLING COMPOUND is as follows: 100 parts quartz sand + 60 parts resin/hardener. For example, 10 kg of quartz sand + 4 kg of resin (A) + 2 kg of hardener (B).
What is the mixing ratio of the 2K bonding primer?
The mixing ratio for the 2K bonding primer is 5:1. For example, 500g of resin to 100g of hardener.
What is the mixing ratio of the DEEP PRIMER? What is the coverage of the DEEP PRIMER?
The DEEP PRIMER is ready to use and does not need to be mixed with any other product. The coverage is 1kg per 7m².
Why does the colour of my Microcement look different than on the website?
The colour of the Microcement may vary depending on the lighting in the room. The brighter the room and the cooler the light source, the lighter and cooler the colour will appear.
In rooms with a warm light source, the colour may appear warmer and more yellowish.
Why is my Microcement patchy while drying? Why is my wet Microcement so dark?
The colour of the Microcement may look different right after application, and you may notice some uneven patches. This is due to the drying time of each Microcement layer, the size of the area covered, and the thickness of the Microcement in certain spots.
The thicker the layer of Microcement, the longer it will take to dry. Two coats of Microcement usually need 24-48 hours to dry fully, and only then will the true colour be visible.
Is Microcement waterproof?
Microcement is only waterproof when it is sealed with our 2K PU Topcoat.
How can I apply Microcement on walls?
Priming the Surface before applying Microcement on walls
Ensure the surface where you want to apply Microcement is dimensionally stable (not warping), solid, dry, and free of dirt, release agents, or irregularities.
Sand down any uneven areas before starting to prime for the Microcement.
Apply primer compatible with Microcement:
If you want to apply Microcement to tiled walls or dimensionnaly stable non-absorbent walls: Use our special PUTTY PRIMER to prime the tiles and fill the joints.
If you want to apply Microcement to smooth absorbent but dimensionnaly stable walls: We recommend our DEEP PRIMER before laying Microcement. (we recommend 2 layers DEEP PRIMER before applying Microcement)
Allow the primer to dry completely before proceeding with Microcement. Applying Microcement on when the primer isn't properly dry, will result in cracking.
Main Coating of Microcement on Walls
1. The first layer Microcement on walls is done with Microcement medium-grained. Mix the Microcement A-component (medium grain) with the B-component according to the specified ratio.
2. Add WB pigment in the recommended quantity to colour the Microcement.
3. Spread the microcment with a trowel on the wall and let it dry.
4. Sand down any Microcement imperfections larger than 3mm and vacuum the dust.
5. Apply a second layer of Microcement on your wall within 24h: Use fine-grain Microcement for a smoother finish or medium grain for a more textured look, depending on your desired outcome on your walls.
Pro Tips: You can add up to 10% WB pigment to your Microcement to achieve deeper colours. Our Microcement sets include 2% pigment if you want a deeper colour, we recommend buying WB pigment separately.
If more than 24 hours pass between Microcement layers, sand the first layer Microcement lightly and remove any dust. This will roughen the Microcement, improving adhesion and preventing the next layer Microcement from peeling.
Apply a small amount of Liquid B with a brush or roller on the sanded Microcement layer. Be careful not to oversaturate the surface.
Sealing Instructions (Seal Microcment 48 Hours After the last Microcement layer)
Note: When using Microcement in wet rooms, on surfaces exposed to direct water contact, or high-wear areas (e.g., floors, surfaces cleaned with aggressive detergents, or heavy mechanical loads), we recommend sealing Microcement with EPODEX Polyurethane Resin (2K PU Topcaot) in matt or glossy finish.
Steps for Sealing Microcement with 2K PU Topcoat:
Prepare the 2K PU Topcoat:
1. Mix PU Resin (A) with the PU Hardener (B) in a 2 to 1 mixing ratio (for example, 1kg A-component 2K PU Topcoat with 0.5kg 2K PU Topcoat)
2. Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the 2K PU Topcoat components will settle there. Ideally, pour the 2K PU Topcoat mixture a clean mixing cup and mix again until it is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
3. Pour the mixed 2K PU Topcoat into a paint tray and apply it thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern.
4. Let the first layer 2K PU Topcoat cure and apply the second coat in the same way. We recommend applying the second coat 2K PU Topcoat after min. 6h but not more than 20h.
Curing Time of the 2K PU Topcoat:
The surface coated with 2K PU Topcoat will be walkable after 12 hours at 25°C and fully chemically cured after approximately 6 days.
Pro Tips: Ensure Full Coverage: Apply the 2K PU Topcoat in two thin coats, using overlapping strokes. This significantly reduces the risk of missed spots and ensures complete sealing. We recommend applying 2 coats 2K PU Topcoat of each 100g/m².
Pro Tip for when applying 2K PU Topcoat to a coarse Microcement finish: If your Microcement is very textured, you can apply the 2K PU Topcoat with a brush. Make sure to apply it very thinly!
What will happen if I add more of less pigment in the Microcement?
We recommend using 2% pigment in each Microcement mix. Adding more or less pigment onto the Microcement may result in a colour different from what is shown on our website. The way you apply the Microcement can also affect the result, leading to variations in shade and surface texture.
How to apply Microcment on floor?
Priming for Microcement on floors
Surface Preparation for Microcement:
Ensure the surface is dimensionally stable (not warping), solid, load-bearing, dry, and free of dirt, separating agents, and uneven areas before applying Microcement.
Sand down any uneven areas.
Choosing and applying the right primer for your Microcement project:
When applying Microcement to tiled floors or uneven floors: Use our 2K Primer & Levelling Compound to prime and level.
When applying Microcement to absorbent levelled floors that are dimensionally stable: Use our DEEP PRIMER, we recommend 2 layers.
When applying Microcement to non-absorbent levelled floors that are dimensionally stable: Use our 2K Bonding primer.
Let the primer dry completely before proceeding with the Microcement. Applying Microcement on when the primer isn't properly dry, will result in cracking.
Main Coating of Microcement on Floors
1. Start with the Microcement large-grained on your floor. Mix The Microcement powder Component A (Large Grain) with Component B according to the recommended ratio.
2. Add the recommended amount of WB pigment to your Microcement to achieve the desired colour.
3. Pour the mixed and coloured Microcement, spread it evenly with a trowel on your floor, and allow it to dry.
4. Sand down any unevenness in your Microcement that are over 3mm and vacuum the dust.
5. Apply a second layer Microcement on your floor within 24h using Medium Grain or a large grain, following the same process.
Pro Tips: You can add up to 10% WB pigment to your Microcement to achieve deeper colours. Our Microcement sets include 2% pigment if you want a deeper colour, we recommend buying WB pigment separately.
If more than 24 hours pass between Microcement layers, sand the first layer Microcement lightly and remove any dust. This will roughen the Microcement, improving adhesion and preventing the next layer Microcement from peeling.
Apply a small amount of Liquid B with a brush or roller on the sanded Microcement layer. Be careful not to oversaturate the surface.
Steps for Sealing Microcement with 2K PU Topcoat (48 Hours After the last Microcement layer):
Prepare the 2K PU Topcoat:
1. Mix PU Resin (A) with the PU Hardener (B) in a 2 to 1 mixing ratio (for example, 1kg A-component 2K PU Topcoat with 0.5kg 2K PU Topcoat)
2. Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the 2K PU Topcoat components will settle there. Ideally, pour the 2K PU Topcoat mixture a clean mixing cup and mix again until it is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
3. Pour the mixed 2K PU Topcoat into a paint tray and apply it thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern.
4. Let the first coat 2K PU Topcoat cure and apply the second coat in the same way. We recommend applying the second coat 2K PU Topcaot after min. 6h but not more than 20h.
Pro Tip for Flooring: Do not wear rubber-soled shoes while sanding, cleaning, after cleaning, or during the application of the 2K PU Topcoat, as rubber microparticles may cause an uneven finish. Rubber-soled shoes can be worn once the second coat of 2K PU Topcoat is cured. Wait until the 2K PU Topcoat is walkable (approx. 12 hours) before applying the second coat.
Curing Time of the 2K PU Topcoat:
The surface coated with 2K PU Topcoat will be walkable after 12 hours at 25°C and fully chemically cured after approximately 6 days.
Pro Tips: Ensure Full Coverage: Apply the 2K PU Topcoat in two thin coats, using overlapping strokes. This significantly reduces the risk of missed spots and ensures complete sealing. We recommend applying 2 coats 2K PU Topcoat of each 100g/m².
Pro Tip for when applying 2K PU Topcoat to a coarse Microcement finish: If your Microcement is very textured, you can apply the 2K PU Topcoat with a brush. Make sure to apply it very thinly!
How to apply Microcement to furniture?
Instructions for Use Microcement on furniture
Priming for Microcement
Surface Preparation for Microcement:
Ensure the furniture is dimensionally stable (not warping), ,solid, dry, and free of dirt, separating agents, and uneven areas before applying Microcement.
Sand down any uneven areas.
If required use our PUTTY PRIMER to level and prime your furniture before applying Microcement.
4. If the furniture where you want to apply Microcement is already leveled and smooth, use either our 2K Bonding Primer (for-non absorbent surfaces) or DEEP PRIMER (for absorbent surfaces) to prime your furniture where Microcement will be applied.
5. Let the primer dry completely. Applying Microcement on when the primer isn't properly dry, will result in cracking.
Main Coating of Microcement on Furniture
1. Start with the Microcement medium-grained on furniture. Mix Microcement A components in medium grain size with the Liquid B component in a ratio of 100:20 by weight (i.e 7kg Powder A-component with 1.4kg Liquid B-component).
Add 2% WB pigment to color the Microcement (i.e. 2×100g WB Pigment to 7kg Powder A-component and 1.4kg Liquid B-component).
3. Spread the coloured mixed Microcement thinly with a trowel on your furniture and allow to dry.
4. Sand off any unevenness in the Microcement greater than 3mm and vacuum up any sanding dust.
5. Apply a second coat of Microcement medium-grained on your furniture in the same way within 24 hours.
Pro Tip: Up to 10% WB Pigment can be added to your Microcement for more intense colors. The Microcement set for furniture comes with 2% WB pigment, if you want a deeper colour, you need to order more wb pigment. If you exceed 24 hours between the Microcement layers, sand the first layer and remove the dust. This roughens the microcemenet for better bonding and ensures the next layer Microcement won’t break off.
On the sanded micro cement, use a light brush of liquid B. Brush or roll on a small amount to avoid flooding the Microcement.
Sealing Instructions with PU(48 Hours After last coat of Microcement)
Note: When using Microcement in wet rooms, on surfaces exposed to direct water contact, or high-wear areas (e.g., floors, surfaces cleaned with aggressive detergents, or heavy mechanical loads), we recommend sealing Microcement with EPODEX Polyurethane Resin (2K PU Topcoat) in matt or glossy finish.
Steps for Sealing Microcement with 2K PU Topcoat:
Prepare the 2K PU Topcoat:
1. Mix PU Resin (A) with the PU Hardener (B) in a 2 to 1 mixing ratio (for example, 1kg A-component 2K PU Topcoat with 0.5kg 2K PU Topcoat)
2. Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the 2K PU Topcoat components will settle there. Ideally, pour the 2K PU Topcoat mixture a clean mixing cup and mix again until it is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component
and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
3. Pour the mixed 2K PU Topcoat into a paint tray and apply it thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern.
4. Let the first layer 2K PU Topcoat cure and apply the second coat in the same way. We recommend applying the second coat 2K PU Topcoat after min. 6h but not more than 20h.
Curing Time of the 2K PU Topcoat:
The surface coated with 2K PU Topcoat will be walkable after 12 hours at 25°C and fully chemically cured after approximately 6 days.
Pro Tips: Ensure Full Coverage: Apply the 2K PU Topcoat in two thin coats, using overlapping strokes. This significantly reduces the risk of missed spots and ensures complete sealing. We recommend applying 2 coats 2K PU Topcoat of each 100g/m².
Pro Tip for when applying 2K PU Topcoat to a coarse Microcement finish: If your Microcement is very textured, you can apply the 2K PU Topcoat with a brush. Make sure to apply it very thinly!
My Microcement is too thick what can I do?
If the Microcement is too thick, you can add more Liquid B to adjust its consistency.
Here are the recommended mixing ratios by Microcement grain-size:
Large Microcement: 100:25 to a maximum of 100:28 (by weight)
Medium Microcement: 100:20 to a maximum of 100:23 (by weight)
Fine Microcement: 100:35 to a maximum of 100:40 (by weight)
Please note that adding more liquid B to your Microcement, will lighten the colour at the end.
Why doesn’t my first coat Microcement look like the pictures on your website?
It is completely normal not to see a strong Microcement effect after just one layer. The textured finish you're aiming for is typically achieved with two layers of Microcement. The first layer Microcement serves as a base, while the second layer Microcement helps to build up the texture and enhance the overall effect.
What are the Microcement grain-size?
We offer three different grain sizes Microcement: large (80 µm), medium (330 µm), and fine (450 µm).
Can I apply your Microcement set for furniture, or Microcement set for walls to my floor?
No, when working on floors, you must start with a layer of large grain-size Microcement to provide higher compressive strength and durability.
What is CONCRETE EFFECT?
CONCRETE EFFECT is a decorative, resin-modified, and fibre-reinforced levelling compound designed to mimic the look of raw concrete. It is primarily used on walls and tiled surfaces to create a modern, industrial-style finish. The product is mixed with water and WB Pigments to achieve the desired colour and is applied with a trowel for a smooth or textured appearance. Perfect for adding a stylish, cost-effective finish to interiors.
The most frequently asked questions about paints & varnishes
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