FAQ – Frequently asked questions

To bring your surface to a high gloss, use our sandpaper, which you can find in the accessory products in the shop.
Start with a grit of P100 and gradually sand up to a P3,000 grit. If you wish, you can also sand up to a P10,000 grit here until you have achieved the desired effect. Each sanding pass must be completed, which means that any damage to the previous sanding size had to be removed. If a sanding pass is not too completed, a haze will always remain.
When a sanding pass is finished cannot be said in general terms, as this depends on many factors, such as the speed, whether the sanding is wet or dry and how "hard" the surface has been able to harden. We recommend removing dust from the surface and spraying it with a silicone remover after each sanding cycle. If you then run a light over it, you can see very well where reworking is still necessary.
You also have the option of applying a transparent, thin layer of the PRO system. This layer evens out the damage and the surface becomes high gloss.
Finally, polish your surface with EPODEX Resin Polish.

A matt sanded surface can be sealed with the PRO system, a transparent acrylic lacquer or PU resin. This saves the step of sanding to a high gloss. Due to its low viscosity, the epoxy resin of the PRO compensates for the damage caused by sanding because it flows everywhere.

Epoxy resin is scratch resistant, but not scratchproof. There is no material that is completely insensitive to scratches. You can achieve greater resistance to scratches if you apply a polyurethane resin-based top coat. Unfortunately, this is not yet available in our shop, as ours is still in the development stage.

The epoxy resin is not hazardous to health after complete chemical curing according to GHS08 REACH Compliance and is also not toxic according to GHS06. Please note that cutting into the epoxy resin may leave residue on the cutlery. Our epoxy resins are resistant to most chemicals and acids (also present in food). Nevertheless, it is possible that components of the cured material that are not intended to be consumed may be dissolved by acids or similar.

You can, for example, use epoxy resin mixed with glass beads instead of pure epoxy resin. This increases the slip resistance extremely. Or you can opt for a stone carpet with epoxy resin. You can also sprinkle in quartz sand from the DIY store or sand the surface. Grit sizes are possible from 800 to 2000, depending on how matt you want it.

You can work wet-on-wet if you do not exceed the recommended layer thickness. For example, 2cm PRO+, after 8 hours pour on 2cm PRO+ again. Wet-on-wet switching between systems is not recommended.

The following errors lead to the result:

• Not stirred without streaks
• Mixed by volume and not by kg
• Not repotted
• Scraped from the edge or bottom
• Ambient temperature too low
• Wrong mixing ratio
• Not weighed, but simply tipped out A and added B - due to different viscosities, not all come out of the container
• Too much pigment
• Foreign pigment

If the mixing ratio is followed exactly and resin and hardener are mixed evenly and then repotted, this result cannot occur. Sources of error are:
• Not stirred without streaks - means unconnected poured material.
• Scraped from the rim of the cup
• Not repotted

No epoxy resin is 100% UV resistant. However, by adding UV stabilisers it is possible to obtain a very crystal-clear resin. Compared to the ECO system, our PRO systems offer the highest possible UV protection, which largely prevents yellowing. Nevertheless, it must be considered that no epoxy resin is completely UV-resistant.

Choose an epoxy resin that is UV-stabilised from the outset. Use EPODEX PRO, PRO+ or PRO MAX, for example, which have been UV-stabilised with the appropriate additives.

This happens when the surface has not been sanded correctly beforehand. If the surface is not high gloss, the polish will settle in the sanding damage.

No, please always use resin and hardener from one system together.

The application areas and product properties are different. ECO has a lower maximum pouring height but cures quickly. This system contains few UV stabilisers and may yellow over time. Use it for laminating and for thin sealing coats, as well as in coloured form. EPODEX PRO has a maximum pour height of 2cm and produces a clearer result.

Depending on the substrate, TILE PAINT 2K for tiles or CONCRETE PAINT 2K for stone and concrete walls are suitable as wall paints. These paints are epoxy resin-based.
We do not recommend the use of our epoxy resin systems ECO, PRO or PRO+. This is because these systems have a rather low viscosity and would therefore run-on vertical surfaces. It is possible to do this by applying several coats, but this involves a lot of effort. However, you have the option of coating wood panelling horizontally with our ECO or PRO system and applying it to your walls afterwards.

These are carbamates that form when moisture encounters uncured material. You can easily sand these down and then polish the resin back up.
To bring your surface to a high gloss, use our sandpaper.
Start with a grit of P100 and gradually sand up to a P3,000 grit. If you wish, you can also sand up to a P10,000 grit until you have achieved the desired effect. Finally, polish your surface with EPODEX Resin Polish.

Due to colder temperatures during storage or transport, the A component (epoxy resin) may crystallise. This has the effect of a cloudy, milky appearance. White residues may also appear on the rim or bottom of the container.
No need to worry! You can easily reverse the crystallisation. We recommend that you check in advance whether crystallisation has occurred. To do this, pour some resin into a mixing cup. If you notice traces of crystallisation, please place the container in a boiling water bath. A few minutes are sufficient to reverse the crystallisation. If this does not happen after a few minutes, extend the time in the water bath, and increase the temperature. Alternatively, you can place the containers on a heater and shake them repeatedly in between. Then let the product cool down to room temperature. Then the material can be processed as usual.

At least 1.5 - 2mm, otherwise craters or open areas could form due to material shrinkage during curing and surface tension during hardening.

No, none of our systems requires UV light for curing.

Use the quantity calculator on our product pages.

In the liquid state, you should avoid any contact with skin and mucous membranes, as epoxy resin can cause severe irritation. When cured, epoxy resin is no longer dangerous.

All are BPA-free, VOC-free is only the PRO series.

Silicone or polypropylene mixing containers are best because they can be reused after the residue has been cured. The material does not bond with the resin or the 2K paints, so you can squeeze out the residues after curing.

The epoxy resin adheres to almost all surfaces and materials. The only exceptions are silicone and polypropylene. We recommend sanding (roughening) smooth surfaces beforehand to provide a better adhesive base.

Our epoxy resins are resistant to almost all chemicals, petrol and oil. However, due to a large number of chemicals, we recommend testing the resistance selectively in advance. Various acids can dissolve the surface. We recommend a test in advance.

Yes, to achieve a perfect result, follow the mixing ratio and all instructions for application and use exactly.

No, the colour does not change shade. This is just about better coverage, which means if you add less pigment than recommended, the colour may not cover. To get a lighter or darker shade of the colour, it can be tinted with another WB pigment, as all colours are inter-mixable.

That depends on the surface. On hard surfaces, epoxy can be sanded off. Epoxy resin cannot be removed from clothing.

This changes the curing time. The colder it is, the slower the curing, the warmer the faster. To work correctly and to have enough time for an even spreading, we therefore always recommend these moderate temperatures.
We recommend a processing temperature and intrinsic temperature of the resin and the hardener of 20°C. The cooler it gets, the more sluggish the reaction between resin and hardener becomes. This does not mean that the epoxy resin will not cure, but full chemical curing may not occur, and the surface will remain susceptible to moisture, heat, UV and scratching. Excessively high temperatures during processing accelerate the reaction between resin and hardener, which can cause the material to boil up. This can cause cracks to form, the surface to become wavy or the material to turn yellow.

Here an application error will have led to the result. This result occurs when the maximum pouring height is exceeded, or the room temperature was too high. Therefore, always observe exactly the maximum pouring height of the epoxy resin system you are using and keep the temperature at 20°C.

Acrylic paints are suitable for this purpose.

Closed containers can be stored for 12 months, and open containers for 6 months.

Yes, epoxy resin is very suitable for this. Horizontally yes, vertically only as epoxy filler.

Epoxy mortar is a mixture of fine sand and ECO epoxy resin. Epoxy putty is a ready-made putty.

You can get resin, hardener, and colour separately from us. This gives you maximum flexibility!

Yes, they are. You can mix your individual desired colour yourself.

No, we generally advise against this.

No, curing takes even longer at a constant recommended room temperature of 20°C, as less reaction heat is generated.

Higher heat resistance can only be achieved by annealing, which means that you place the castings in the oven starting at 60°C and increase the temperature accordingly at intervals. This way you achieve a higher heat resistance.

Use the solvent acetone.

You need the casting resin in a colour of your choice, nail soles, squeegees, masking material and a paint tray.

For coating, the worktop must be dismantled and positioned in a casing. Shuttering is recommended because otherwise, the epoxy resin would run down the edges. This could result in too little material on the surface and craters could form. We, therefore, recommend painting the edges with an acrylic varnish beforehand so that they are colour matched. For the project of coating a worktop, we recommend the ECO or PRO system. We recommend roughening the surface in advance to obtain a sufficient adhesive base.

Visit our YouTube Channel and watch the video on how to build a River table.

Yes, this type of application is suitable for primers. Due to the possible formation of craters, we recommend 1.5 to 2mm.

As long as the material is not yet cured, the addition of heat will cause the bubbles to rise. You can therefore use a hairdryer, for example, and apply heat to your epoxy resin project at a slight distance. If the resin has already cured, the bubbles can no longer be removed.

By sanding with sandpaper with a grit between 800 and 2000.

Yes, if the epoxy resin has been made heat resistant by annealing.

No, the flowers must be dried and sealed, for example with a layer of EPODEX ECO epoxy resin. To preserve the colour, you can soak the flowers in silicate salts.

When creating patterns, it is important to work at the gelling point of the resin. This is reached when the consistency of the resin is a solid gel.

Yes, the tiles must be free of grease, clean and roughened for the paint to adhere optimally. Depending on the texture of the tiles, we recommend 80 grit for high gloss tiles and 150 grit for matt tiles.

As the layer of 2K paints is very thin, approx. 0.3 mm, the structure of the substrate, e.g., stone or masonry, is usually visible. Slip resistance is not additionally integrated. This can be increased by using the micro glass beads from our shop. Depending on the desired strength of the inhibition, you can add between 5 and 35g to 1kg of paint.

The paint is an all-rounder and adheres to all open-pored substrates. Accordingly, also on wood.

Depending on the texture of the tiles, use 80 grit for high-gloss tiles and 150 grit for matt tiles.

Yes, provided you roughen the tiles first to ensure good adhesion.

We present our colours as true to life as possible. However, please bear in mind that screens can reproduce colours differently.

No, priming is not required, but the tiles must be clean and roughened before applying our TILE PAINT. Porous and highly absorbent joints can be treated with a deep primer beforehand.

No, silicone joints must be removed beforehand.

There is no maximum time. Depending on the room temperature, the drying time of the 1K paints and the curing time of the 2K paints varies between 8 and 12 hours. Here, the finger test can be done, which means that when the paint is no longer tacky, the next coat can follow.

Yes, they are. By mixing them you can achieve individual colour creations.

Wall paint can be removed with soapy water before it has dried. For varnishes, you always need a solvent such as acetone.

With the solvent acetone. Here you have to "soak" the tiles several times with acetone. Vertically, you can put soaked cloths on them, let it work for a few hours and repeat, if necessary, when it evaporates and dries. The paint can then be removed like a sticker or scraped off with a spatula. If the joints are absorbent, you need more acetone and time, as it could penetrate deeper. The paint can also be sanded off.

Depending on the substrate colour, 2 coats is a minimum requirement. Our paints are highly pigmented and highly opaque. In most cases, you will only need one coat.
Depending on the substrate colour, 2 coats is a minimum requirement. Our paints are highly pigmented and highly opaque. In most cases, you will only need one coat.
If you want to paint very dark walls light, a second coat may be necessary. Even with highly absorbent substrates, 2 coats are usually necessary. The quantities on our page are for one coat.

You need 10% for 1K paints and varnishes and 5% for 2K paints and varnishes.

At your local recycling centre. Uncured material must never get into the groundwater and containers must not be disposed of with household waste. It should also be noted that all 2K products are based on epoxy resin. If this uncured material gets into the waste water pipes of our washbasins, it can harden there and block the pipe.